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I’ve lived in TWO castles, including one that had a swimming pool as a moat – here’s how you can stay in them too

The standard reaction I get when telling people I’ve lived in two castles in my life is, understandably, one of utter disbelief. It’s hardly a standard occurrence.

But, yes, it’s true – I’ve been lucky enough to have the opportunity to reside in both Durham Castle and the Chateau de Belcastel, in the south of France.

And you can, too. Well, at least for a short while, on holiday.

The first time I lived in a castle was in 2018. As an undergraduate student at University College, Durham, a select number of students are given rooms within the castle walls. 

I was one of the lucky few. For a year, my address on bills and letters quite literally said, ‘Erin Deborah Waks, Durham Castle, Durham.’ I felt like a princess.

I ate meals inside the Great Hall and studied in the castle’s library which was equipped with old copies of classic novels, nooks and crannies to read in – and, of course, a spiral staircase.

In short, I was basically Hermione in Hogwarts. And it wasn’t even as cold inside as everyone warned me.

But with great castles come great heights – I had to walk up around 100 steps just to get to my room located in the castle keep.

The first time I lived in a castle was in 2018 as an undergraduate student at University College, Durham

The second time I lived in such an impressive building was in 2022 – the Chateau de Belcastel, in France

To make matters worse, we had to move our things out of our rooms at the end of each term.

Bad for me – great for visitors.

Because this meant that the student accommodation rooms doubled as holiday accommodation for anyone staying in Durham, whether that’s for an event, wedding or just a trip.

The opportunity to stay in a UNESCO World Heritage Site is second only to, perhaps, living in one. Studying at Durham was made all the more magical because of my unconventional – and almost unbelievable – living quarters.

During holiday periods when the university is on vacation, it is possible to book bed and breakfast accommodation in Durham Castle – with an array of comfortable bedrooms on offer, ranging from standard rooms with shared facilities to magnificent state rooms.

It might be a tad quieter than when I was there and students would pour out of the university bar, the Undercroft, in the small hours of the morning.

The second time I lived in such an impressive building was in 2022. 

Hired as an intern by the Chateau de Belcastel, a medieval castle that doubles as an art gallery and even has a guest suite in one of the towers, I found myself yet again hauling a suitcase larger than I was up hundreds of stairs. You’d think I’d have learnt by now to pack light.

Hired as an intern by the Chateau de Belcastel, a medieval castle that doubles as an art gallery and even has a guest suite in one of the towers, I found myself yet again hauling a suitcase larger than I was up hundreds of stairs

The crown jewel of this castle is its swimming pool – built as though it were the moat

This castle was really rather different from Durham Castle

But no, I arrived at my (second) castle bedroom with two suitcases in tow, filled with bikinis and summer dresses galore.

This castle was really rather different from Durham Castle. For one, it was smaller. Secondly, there was only one guest suite. And thirdly, I was now working at the service of castle guests, as well as being one myself.

My room this time was much larger – an expansive room in the main tower – and my living room overlooked the castle courtyard. Still as many stairs, though – and this time they were spiralling upwards in a narrow tower.

The guest suite, which can be booked for stays during the spring and summer, is a taste of medieval France with modern amenities.

The crown jewel of this castle is its swimming pool – built as though it were the moat.

While I only had access to the pool when no guests were staying – a rare occurrence in the south of France during the summer – you’d best believe I made the most of it when I did.

Celebrating my birthday by diving into the pool overlooking the valley of Belcastel  was, naturally, a highlight.

A stay in the suite can cost between €190 (£165) and €265 (£230) depending on the season, and fine dining experiences in the lord’s dining room are on offer too. 

I doubt I’ll ever get the chance again to live in a castle (what a sentence to be able to write) and I am beyond grateful for both opportunities

The luxurious B&B style suite is available to rent from April through October. Prices include breakfast as well as a private pool and garden.

I doubt I’ll ever get the chance again to live in a castle (what a sentence to be able to write) and I am beyond grateful for both opportunities.

If I have learnt one thing from the experiences it’s one thing – that waltzing around like a Medieval princess, riding (inflatable) dragons and overlooking the valley below is always worth it.

Oh, and one more thing – pack light. The Medieval period’s not known for its lifts and escalators.



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