It’s almost 20 years since I first visited Dubai. Back then it almost felt like the ‘eighth wonder of the world’.
The Burj al Arab was, after all, the world’s only six-star hotel (albeit self-appointed). The spectacular Palm island was a miracle of land reclamation. And Dubai Mall – the largest on the planet at the time – was just about to open.
This land of superlatives overshadowed the six other Emirates, with most unaware they existed.
Two decades later the story has changed. Dubai’s gilded image has faded a little, while Abu Dhabi has shaken off its staid, business-first reputation with a clutch of world-class theme parks and resort islands.
Then you have Sharjah, which is emerging as the region’s culture hub, and Ras al Khaimah, which has cornered the market in wildlife and white-knuckle adventures.
The final three, the least-known Emirates – Ajman, Fujairah and Umm al Qasr – each offer travellers something more authentic than Dubai’s glitz and glamour, too.
So here’s my pick of which to choose, whatever type of holiday you’re after.
SHARJAH
Few people realise that Sharjah was the first Emirate to open up to western visitors, long before Dubai, in the early 1970s
Best for: Culture vultures
Few people realise that Sharjah was the first Emirate to open up to western visitors, long before Dubai, in the early 1970s. Then came an abrupt turnaround in 1979, with an alcohol ban and its effective closure as a holiday destination. Now it’s back, positioning itself as the ‘Culture Emirate’, with a clutch of attractions that offer fascinating insights into the region’s history.
My favourite is Heart of Sharjah, where coral-walled houses dating back to the mid 19th century have been restored alongside old-style souks and the imposing Al Hisn Fort.
Sharjah is probably the least ‘fly-and-flop’ of all the Emirates. You could stay a month and not do everything, although there’s plenty of opportunity to relax on the gorgeous Al Heera Beach.
My picks? Spend a day with the giraffes, elephants and lions at Sharjah Safari Park. Visit Al Noor island, where the Butterfly House teems with over 20 brightly coloured species. And soak up Arabic culture at the Sharjah Museum of Islamic Civilisation.
While Sharjah is ‘dry’ (still no alcohol), a quick taxi drive over the border into Ajman (where alcohol is legal in foreign hotels) offers sunset gin and tonics and the chance to see two Emirates for the price of one.
BOOK IT: A week at the Sheraton Sharjah Beach Resort & Spa from £807pp room only (expedia.co.uk).
FUJAIRAH
Best for: Young families
Swap skyscrapers for soaring mountain peaks on a sun-drenched break in Fujairah, which is perfect for families looking for something less high-octane than Dubai.
It’s Fujairah’s location – the only Emirate on the Gulf of Oman – that makes it special. The beaches here feel more natural than in Dubai. Plus, when you swim you can see the jagged outline of the Hajar mountains rising up behind the resorts. Temperatures are also a little more moderate than the oven-setting highs in some of the other Emirates.
There’s plenty to do: younger children will love exploring the dramatic forts (there’s half a dozen to choose from) while the shallow, safe beaches are ideal for everything from paddling to paragliding, with a huge range of watersports. The diving is excellent – clear seas, vibrant coral reefs and wrecks to explore – with PADI-accredited schools for beginners and experienced divers.
Perhaps Fujairah’s greatest charm is that it doesn’t attract the same numbers as Dubai or Abu Dhabi: quieter beaches, cheaper hotels, better scenery – what’s not to like?
BOOK IT: A week at the Fairmont Fujairah Beach Resort from £709pp B&B (loveholidays.com).
AJMAN
Best for: RELAXATION
Proof that size really isn’t everything, the smallest Emirate is my go-to for a laid-back, low-key break – without skimping on luxury.
One of my favourite things to do is stroll through the Heritage District, where the walls are covered in murals and street art, the Saleh souk is scented with incense and old houses have been restored into chic cafes.
Kayaking through the mangroves at the Al Zorah Nature Reserve is another treat. You can spot flamingos, herons and egrets, with the skies full of migratory birds during the season.
Because of its size, there are far fewer resorts, and thus far fewer tourists, making it easier to slow the pace and really experience Emirati culture and history.
The Ajman Museum is well worth a visit – an 18th-century fort that was the home of the ruling Emir until 1970 – while a Friday morning trip to the Al Tallah Camel Race course offers the chance to see the ancient Bedouin sport of camel-racing, reinvented for the 21st century with remote-controlled, robot jockeys.
BOOK IT: A week at the Ajman Hotel from £1,494pp half-board (onthebeach.co.uk).
ABU DHABI
Best for: older families
Aerial image of Abu Dhabi, in the United Arab Emirates
Back in 2009, on a visit to Abu Dhabi I was shown plans for the undeveloped island of Saadiyat: set to become a resort island with world-class galleries, museums, an outpost of New York University and pristine beaches.
Fast forward and it’s now a destination itself; home to the Louvre and the Natural History Museum. Frank Gehry’s futuristic Guggenheim is scheduled to open next year with a collection focusing on modern and contemporary art from Asia and North Africa. Then there are some of the most beautiful beaches in the region.
Yet Saadiyat is one small part of what Abu Dhabi offers: a whirligig of theme parks and activities that will keep even the most hard-to-please teenager happy.
The entertainment epicentre is Yas island, which brings together luxury resorts and the vast Yas Mall with the world’s fastest rollercoaster at Ferrari World, six immersive lands from Gotham City to Cartoon Junction at Warner Bros World and the chance to explore beneath the waves at SeaWorld Abu Dhabi (the biggest indoor marine park on the planet).
There are plenty of ways to slow things down too, whether going on a sunset camel ride, taking a sightseeing boat tour or enjoying a day of island-hopping… a holiday in Abu Dhabi can be as fun-packed or chilled out as you like.
BOOK IT: A week at the W Abu Dhabi from £1,354pp room-only (virginatlantic.com).
DUBAI
Best for: COUPLES
Dubai needs little introduction; blazing out from a million Insta feeds and TikTok videos
The most high-profile Emirate needs little introduction; blazing out from a million Insta feeds and TikTok videos. But Dubai remains hugely popular with Britons for a reason.
There are glittering beaches, hotels for every budget and constant new attractions popping up that make it seem different every time you visit.
The key is to pick the right neighbourhood as a base: the Palm Jumeirah has the pick of luxury, romantic resorts; Downtown Dubai is ideal for first-timers (close to the Burj Khalifa and the Dubai Mall); and Deira is a great choice for those on a budget or wanting to be near the traditional souks and historic districts.
In recent years Dubai has become a much more walkable city, whether strolling the palm-lined Marina promenade, filled with shops and restaurants, ambling along the Canal Boardwalk or around the heritage neighbourhood of Al Seef, set along Dubai Creek.
A sunset tour on an abra (a traditional wooden ferry boat) is a great way to start an evening, while the city’s numerous rooftop bars and restaurants are a perfect location for a romantic dinner for two.
What else? Dubai offers everything from skiing (inside the Mall of the Emirates) and surfing to shopping and sky-high viewing platforms at the Burj Khalifa.
The only problem is how to fit it all in (and still find plenty of time for the beach).
BOOK IT: A week at the Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach from £1,366pp B&B (tui.co.uk).
RAS AL KHAIMAH
Best for: adventure
Calling itself the ‘Nature Emirate’ – with great swathes of lush mangroves, rolling wastes of sandy desert and 64km of beach – Ras offers a quite different experience to Dubai and Abu Dhabi’s urban pleasures.
Dry river bed valleys such as Wadi Ghalilah and Wadi Shawka offer hiking for all levels, while birdwatchers can spot 200 different species including the endangered Socotra cormorant and the elusive greater spotted eagle at the Ras Al Khor Wildlife Sanctuary.
But Ras’s natural landscapes offer more than just walking and wildlife.
No visit is complete without a trip up Jebel Jais, the highest peak in the Emirates. Here, daredevils can ride the world’s longest zipline (shooting along at speeds of up to 100mph) – while the more sane just stand and watch.
Simply taking in the prospect from the viewing deck is a thrill, as is following the Jais Summit Trail, which leads to the highest public point in the UAE.
Back at sea level, a stroll through the Old Souk, on the waterfront in Ras Al-Khaimah city, offers the chance to buy handicrafts, spices and textiles. It’s far less glossy (but more authentic) than anything you’ll find in Dubai – while the numerous luxury beachfront resorts are perfect for relaxing between adventures.
BOOK IT: A week at the Rixos al Mairid Ras Al Khaimah costs from £1,477pp, all-inclusive (britishairways.com).
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