Wandering into a Dublin pub outside of Temple Bar as a tourist can require a certain amount of bravery.
Sure enough, as soon as I push through the doors of The Padraig Pearse Tavern on the city’s Pearse Street, I feel a few heads swivel in my direction.
At the bar, my own Yorkshire accent feels out of place amongst the melodic Irish chatter as I order a drink.
We’d ducked into this local boozer to escape the rain and, thankfully, the self-consciousness soon wears off. Drinks in hand, we manage to melt into the background after grabbing a small corner table.
Music plays, there’s laughter and taking a chance on walking into a pub full of Dubliners pays off; there’s warmth and character in spades. The establishment is decorated with Irish colours and tributes to Dublin’s complicated past.
There’s also value for money. A pint of Guinness for myself and a pint of Coors for my brother comes to only €11.80, just over £10.
The Guinness only cost €5.40 (£4.70) too, roughly half of the €10.45 (£9.16) that visitors might pay for a pint of the black stuff in Dublin’s main tourist area.
Dublin’s reputation precedes it… it’s famously rich in culture and sights – from Trinity College to Dublin Castle, plus the promise of hearty food, great drink and its signature ‘craic’.
Dublin’s Padraig Pearse is full of laughter and chatter from locals, as well as bargain pints of Guinness
The Mail’s Alesia Fiddler ordered pint of Guinness and a pint of Coors – coming to only €11.80, just over £10 in total
There’s captivating tales galore, including the backstory of legendary seafood seller Molly Malone, whose statue stands on Suffolk Street.
Netflix’s recent House of Guinness, set in Dublin’s famous storehouse and starring James Norton and Louis Partridge, has put the city back in the spotlight again.
Even on a wintry weekend in November, Dublin delivers everything I’d hoped it would.
Temple Bar, which can get a bad rap for its high drinks prices and party vibes, still remains a must-do.
Located on the South Bank of the River Liffey, the city’s most famous district is brimming with live music, cobbled streets and more pubs than it needs.
Can you visit Dublin without stepping into the iconic Temple Bar pub at the heart of the action? Probably not, and this 180-year-old watering hole is worth a look inside, even if you don’t stay for a drink.
Some visitors never stray at all from the tourist streets, but we’re determined to spend some time in more authentic haunts and find, a short walk away on Stephen Street Lower, The Hairy Lemon.
This characterful pub quickly becomes our favourite spot. Many pints are consumed while traditional Irish music – and more modern tunes – entertain a full house. It’s so packed, it’s a battle to the bar each time to get a drink.
Temple Bar is beautifully decorated in the cooler months, but is heaving with tourists and venues charging high prices
Alesia stayed at easyHotel Dublin, which is centrally located and a great place to rest up after a busy day exploring the city
Alongside the Padraig Pearse Tavern, we also liked the The Liberty Belle, an unfussy pub on historic Francis Street that’s been serving punters decently priced drinks for centuries.
Our base for the night is the easyHotel, which is conveniently located in Stoneybatter, just far enough out of Temple Bar – a 30-minute walk – to feel like we’re staying in the real Dublin. It’s reasonable too, at €75 (£65) a night.
Our quest to explore areas beyond Dublin’s tourist-heavy centre sees us escape to the gorgeous Irish coast, via the DART, Dublin’s electrified light railway network.
In just 30 minutes, we’re transported from the hectic streets, shops and bars to a picturesque and peaceful coastal village – Howth. We breathe out and unwind as we walk along the peaceful pier.
Still, it’s a crisp afternoon and it had been raining much of the day before so I’m questioning if getting on a boat and heading around the famously whippy Irish coast is a good idea.
Surprisingly, it turns out to be the best way to spend the time. The sun is shining and after tucking into some fish and chips, we meet Shane, our guide who runs Shane’s Howth Adventures, along the pontoon and hop on board his boat for a tour around the area.
As the water splashes against the boat, we begin to immerse ourselves in the folklore tales and history Shane is sharing with the group.
At one point, we pull up near a small islet and see around ten to 15 seals sunbathing, as our man in the know explains they’re digesting their lunch.
Outside of the bustling city, a trip to Dublin’s coastal town of Howth proves to be a success even in November
A spice bag of of crispy chicken, golden chips, onion and red pepper from X’ian Street Food is the perfect meal after a day out in the cold
Afterwards, the experienced tour guide tells me how he thinks parts of the Dublin coast are ‘pure magic’.
‘Looking across the sun and facing into the bay, there’s some of my favourite places,’ he tells us, gesturing at the rolling hills that overlook Howth.
Back on land and back in the city, we enjoy another scenic attraction, Iveagh Gardens, which sits close to Dublin’s National Concert Hall.
The sound of crashing water greets us the moment we enter the park. It only takes a few seconds to find the source – a beautiful waterfall surrounded by greenery – and it’s surprising how far away I feel from the roads rammed with traffic and paths heaving with tourists.
My brother finds a peaceful bench to sit and read while I explore the gardens. A nearby path leads to a charming maze with a sundial at its centre, and there’s a rose garden, several sculptures and fountains to enjoy.
I’m the only one inside the maze and happily whizz around it, proudly telling my brother afterwards how I completed it in less than five minutes. He shakes his head.
To fuel the 20,000 steps a day we easily trek, we go for sustenance in the shape of a local culinary favourite, the Dublin spice bag.
Consisting of a paper parcel full of crispy chicken, golden chips, onion and red pepper, all coated in a special spice mix, this Irish fast food is the perfect meal after a day out in the cold.
Another way to escape the crowded city streets is heading to Iveagh Gardens, which has a beautiful waterfall feature
Or Marsh’s Library, adjacent to St. Patrick’s Cathedral, is a peaceful and characterful place to visit too
X’ian Street Food offers the best in the city centre, according to DesignMyNight, and it definitely didn’t disappoint at just €12.50 (£10.96).
If you want to dive into Dublin’s history a little more, Glasnevin Cemetery is a deeply atmospheric way to do it. We make our way around the country’s largest burial ground and, with the help of a self-guided tour, learn all about various prominent national figures and Ireland’s fight for freedom.
Where else? 14 Henrietta Street is a great way to gain an understanding of what the city has been through, with over 300 years of history documented and even first-hand accounts from former residents.
Another port of call on a journey into Dublin’s history saw us head to Marsh’s Library, adjacent to St. Patrick’s Cathedral.
Walking up several old, stone steps to the grand door, it feels like going back to a time long before the Luas tram system darted through the city.
The library still follows most of the same rules it did back when it was first opened by Archbishop Narcissus Marsh in 1707, a knowledgeable staff member tells me.
Gazing up at the tall bookcases crammed full of intriguing, antique books and even ladders to reach the highest shelves, it’s like browsing a real-life Hogwarts.
There’s so much more to Dublin than merry days spent in its many pubs, though no-one could argue it’s important to enjoy that side too.
TRAVEL FACTS
Alesia stayed at easyHotel Dublin, where rooms start from €75 (£65) a night, easyhotel.com
She travelled with Aer Lingus, which offers flights to Dublin in December for around £56.
For more information on visiting Ireland and trip inspiration, visit Ireland.com
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