Where is everyone? We’re on the Greek island of Zakynthos – recently deemed the busiest tourist spot in Europe by the consumer group Which? – but it’s lovely and quiet as we drive through pretty countryside along empty lanes.
Using European Commission figures, Which? estimated that for every 1,000 residents there could be 149,887 holidaymakers during the summer.
The result was that the Ionian island, also known as Zante, came top in the group’s poll of ‘highest tourist pressure’ in Europe, ahead of Istria in Croatia (with 133,467 tourists per 1,000) and Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands (118,720). In Zakynthos the tourist-resident ratio was 150:1 and people were dubbing it Europe’s ‘capital of overtourism’.
There is, however, a way round this. Go in the ‘shoulder’ seasons – in May and October – when it’s still warm, with average daily highs of 23C. It’s peaceful, with none of the peak season hordes, and the beaches are as beautiful as ever and the cultural sights just as enticing.
Prices are reasonable, with five days’ car hire from £64 and double rooms from £137 B&B at the lovely four-star Windmill Bay Hotel on the east coast, where we’re staying.
It’s blissful, a perfect time to explore this gorgeous island.
On day one, we hit the empty roads north, pulling into the Goumas Estate Winery, where we sample some excellent Zakynthian wines paired with smoked cheese, figs and homemade chocolate.
Ensconced in the cellar of the restored 19th-century stone farmhouse, we learn about the winemaking process. Then we move outside to pluck the sweetest grapes from the vine. They explode in our mouths like sugar bombs.
Zakynthos island came top in a poll of ‘highest tourist pressure’ in Europe as there were an estimated 149,887 holidaymakers for every 1,000 residents during the summer
A dish served at the Windmill Bay Hotel, found in the seaside resort of Argassi on the island
Windmill Bay Hotel is in the usually busy tourist resort of Argassi – but not now, we find, as we stroll around. It’s also relaxing to take boat trips to hidden bays that are packed in high season including Navagio, otherwise known as Shipwreck Beach, and to the Blue Caves.
TRAVEL FACTS
Doubles from £137 B&B at the four-star Windmill Bay Hotel windmillhotelszante.com. All-inclusive stays at the five-star Domes Aulus Zante from £213, domesresorts.com. Gatwick-Zakynthos flights from £55.99, easyjet.com.
But you need to be mindful. Zakynthos is the most important nesting ground for endangered loggerhead turtles in Europe, and you should, whatever the season, avoid the nesting beaches of Gerakas and Laganas Bay and certainly stay away from marked nests.
We drop into the Sea Turtle Rescue and Information Centre to learn how to best preserve the island’s most vulnerable residents. Run by volunteers, this organisation is focused on conservation by education. You should, we learn, steer clear of turtle-spotting boat tours, as not only do some boats get too close to the creatures, causing stress, but many injuries have been caused by propellers.
We visit the resort of Laganas, known for lively ‘party scene’ clubs and pubs in the summer. But it’s chilled out when we go, and we call in at the unusual History War Museum, where you can learn about events in the Second World War, the Korean War and Vietnam War.
Another day we find the Little Farm, a shaded petting farm in a hilltop olive grove near Laganas. This is perfect for animal lovers, who can feed and interact with rescued goats, rabbits and ponies.
Zakynthos town is quite busy even in the shoulder season, but not overly so.
We love the harbour-side cafes, Venetian-style buildings and enjoy people-watching in St Mark’s Square. We go for impromptu drinks at a little eclectically styled bar, while nibbling pastelli, local sweet pastries drenched in honey and sesame seeds.
We return to Windmill Bay Hotel, home to the Anadalis restaurant, where we chat to the manager, Sophia Kladis.
The Church of Agios Dionysios is a major landmark, found on the seafront in Zakynthos town
‘The early and late months of the season are ideal for those who wish to experience the island at a slower pace, without queuing for a sunbed or competing for the best restaurant table,’ she says, confirming all we have discovered for ourselves.
‘You can walk along the southern beaches, enjoy yoga by the sea, or hike up Mount Skopos for breathtaking views.’
Quieter roads and lower temperatures also mean it’s a safer time for cyclists.
While packing to leave, I notice my phone’s health app has recorded a bumper week of steps.
This shoulder season sojourn has made me look at the Greek islands, and Zakynthos, in a new light… and not just from a sun lounger.
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