When Captain James Colnett set foot on the Galapagos Islands in 1793 it marked the end to an arduous year-long voyage on the merchant ship Rattler.
Finally on solid ground, they spent weeks examining this volcanic territory, charting the islands and assessing the whale population.
Nowadays, thankfully, you don’t need to risk catching scurvy to get a taste of this otherworldly landscape. Take an expedition cruise and you can spend as little as five days exploring the archipelago, befriending the world’s smallest penguins and biggest tortoises.
Indeed, expedition cruising has sprung open corners of the Earth that were previously unreachable for most of us – which is how I find myself strolling the shores of Heligoland, a remote archipelago 44 miles out into the North Sea.
After boarding the MS Fridtjof Nansen in the port of Hamburg, we’ve wiggled down the River Elbe to dock in one of the most isolated spots in Europe.
As I’m coming to learn, far from lounging on a sundeck sipping a pina colada or two, at the heart of expedition cruising is exploration and adventure – which you sense the moment you step on board an HX Expeditions ship.
Adventurous HX Expedition voyages take passengers to a whole array of far-flung spots, with a host of unique opportunities included in sailings, such as camping in Antarctica and seeing polar bears in Svalbard
Executive travel editor Genie Harrison boards the MS Fridtjof Nansen in the port of Hamburg to discover what it’s all about
Upon entering my cabin (named, fittingly, after Norwegian explorer Kristian Kristiansen), I find a weighty silver compass and an ‘expedition-ready’ jacket waiting for me – necessary equipment for the days to come.
The ship’s interior might be plush, and the beds inviting, but the purpose of a voyage like this is not just to luxuriate, but to explore some of the world’s most remarkable landscapes, which are suddenly within easy reach.
For those cruising to Antarctica, for example, you can leave your ship behind for the day and pitch up camp on the ice, lulled to sleep beneath expansive polar skies by the sound of waves and the occasional chirp of a penguin.
On the other side of the globe, voyagers can sail between the glacial valleys and dramatic fjords of Svalbard, the Norwegian archipelago that floats somewhere between Norway and the North Pole.
Out in small ‘zodiac’ boats – or even a kayak – passengers can watch for whales and seals, or spot polar bears and reindeer wandering the shoreline.
The ship’s interiors are luxury, but the outdoor excursions are what it’s all about
As well as Antarctica, with HX Expeditions you can visit such parts of the world as the Galapagos Islands
TRAVEL FACTS
A 12-day ‘Highlights of Antarctica’ cruise is available from £7,306pp, including internal flights, transfers, and all-inclusive food and drink onboard (travelhx.com). Return Avianca flights from Heathrow to Buenos Aires cost from £728 (avianca.com).
But back on board the Nansen, the emphasis remains on discovery.
After a morning watching Heligoland’s seal colony, it’s straight to the Science Centre where we spend an afternoon watching plankton wiggle under microscopes and learning about the inner workings of earthquakes.
In celebration of HX’s 130th anniversary, the ship has also paid clever homage to explorers, such as Captain Colnett, who first took to the waters.
Down on the second deck a cabin has been restored to its 1896 furnishings. It’s a playful nod to the ship’s history, but one that works on a deeper level to communicate the importance of past voyages.
That evening, after a stint in the sauna and a meal at fine dining spot Lindstrom, we’re treated to sea shanties from the crew’s choir, who sing about life at sea and the plight of sailors.
Looking out over the vast waters back to Heligoland, I can see why Captain Colnett opted for a life of adventure.
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