‘There’s something quite magical about being surrounded by water.’
Tom Godfrey, a born-and-bred Yorkshireman, swapped out British grey skies for the cobbled streets of Venice in July this year – and says he hasn’t looked back.
‘I don’t really know how to describe the feeling, but you do pinch yourself every now and again and think, how is this place real?’ he says.
That other-worldly, magical perception of Venice is what has categorised the city as an expensive, tourist-filled hotspot. It’s certainly not known for its budget-friendly appeal.
But when, at just 25, Tom took up a position working as an intern at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection art museum in the Italian city, he found the opposite to be true.
‘Of course’, Tom says, ‘you can do the touristy Venice. Or you can do the side of Venice where your bill at the end of the night is €250 (£218).
‘But you can also do the sort of Venice that I’m doing – I’m eating nicely, drinking €3 (£2.60) Aperols.’
During a break from his PhD at Cambridge University, Tom has been discovering the reality of living in a city that’s known for drawing in visitors from across the world.
Tom Godfrey, a born-and-bred Yorkshireman, swapped out British grey skies for the cobbled streets of Venice in July
At the age of just 25, Tom took up a position working as an intern at an art museum in the Italian city
He shares his endeavours on his Instagram @thomasrgodfrey to his 32,000 followers, where he’s been posting photos and videos of his new life in the Italian city known for its beauty, art, history, food, drink, culture – and tourism.
As Tom explains, the city is full of opportunities to spend a fortune to have a luxurious holiday. But, for people like him, this sort of lifestyle is unaffordable.
Luckily, he says, it’s easy to do Venice on a budget – if you know where to look, that is.
‘Venice is a pretty good place to live, because whilst there are very expensive places, it is still a lot cheaper than living in London,’ Tom adds. ‘Especially when you know where to go.
‘The surprise I had coming here was that I’d been to Venice before and I loved it, but I did have this feeling that it was a bit like Disneyland, and that it felt inauthentic.
‘And this experience has completely changed my mind on that, because I’ve been staying in parts of town where, for whatever reason, tourists don’t really venture. You’ve got to remember that a lot of the tourists who come here are here for a day.’
He adds: ‘People are very aware of the exploitation of tourism, but it’s a double-edged sword, because they also need the tourists to be able to keep it afloat financially, no pun intended.’
Indeed, around 30 million tourists visit the city every year.
During a break from his PhD at Cambridge University, Tom’s discovering the reality of living in a city that’s known for drawing in tourists from across the world
‘A week before coming here, I thought I would enjoy it, but probably be very ready to leave by the end, just because it’s such a touristy city,’ Tom divulges. ‘But now, I could definitely see myself living here.’
Rather than being swamped by hoards of visitors, Tom says he’s found it easy to discover parts of the city that are largely untouched by international visitors – and which, as a result, are much more affordable.
Making Italian friends has allowed him to uncover the spots where he can eat well on a budget, and avoid the crowds, queues and pickpockets of famous areas such as Saint Mark’s Square and the Rialto bridge.
He adds: ‘It’s not unaffordable, and that’s something that surprised me, because I really expected to be going to bars every night and spending €12 (£10) on a beer. It’s way cheaper than England. Even the most expensive beers here are €6, which is like £5.20, which is more than you’d want to pay when you’re in Italy. But compared to London, it’s almost half the price now. A cheap beer in Venice is between €3.50 and €4 (£3-£3.40).’
Osteria Al Squero and Corner Pub offer €3 (£2.60) for Aperol in the city – and the latter also has bottled beer for €3 or draft for up to €5 (£4.40). Tom also recommends Il Mercante and Chet Bar for a slightly elevated ambiance for just €5 per Aperol. Al Chioschetto on Zattere also typically serves wine and spritz for €3.50 and €4 (£3-£3.40).
His favourite dinner spot, Pizza al Volo, offers €8 (£7) a pizza – and, as Tom explains, ‘a lot of the pizzas in Venice aren’t really that good, because they’re done for a tourist market. But this one, being on Campo Santa Margherita, where the students live, is done for Italians.’ He also recommends Gelateria Nico, where a takeaway ice cream is around €3 (£2.60) for two scoops.
His daily espresso – which, like the Italian gentlemen, he drinks standing up at the coffee bar – only sets him back €1.50 (£1.30). Significantly less than the coffee prices upwards of £4 we’re used to seeing in the UK.
His job offers him a monthly stipend of €1,000 (£870), which easily covers his rent and expenses. His employer compiled a list of reasonable rentals between €300 – €400 (£260-£350) and landlords to keep down living costs – otherwise renting can cost around €1,500 (£1,300) each month in Venice.
Tom will be returning to the UK soon to finish his PhD, but he has his sights set on a Venice return
Aside from cheaper living, there are plenty of other perks.
Tom says: ‘It feels safer than even the safest places I’ve lived in the UK, and I think that’s partially by nature of the fact it’s an island that’s quite expensive for locals to live in. You don’t get people who are trying to exploit tourists, because it costs them money to actually get to the town.’
There’s also the weather, of course. He’ll be coming back to the UK soon to finish his studies, but Tom has his sights set on a Venice return.
He says: ‘I’m not inherently opposed to the UK, it’s just that I love the pace of life here. We’re finishing work at 6pm, heading over to a bar. I found in this part of town at least, where the Venetians actually live, they’ll engage in conversation with you. They’re really friendly, and they’re interested to know what you’re doing.
‘The drinking culture is completely different to the UK. It’s not like Thursday night drinks where people are getting absolutely wasted and turning up to work the next day with a headache.’
He also loves the city’s culture, as there’s always something going on, from masked balls to the Venice Film Festival, exhibitions on Leonardo da Vinci and musical displays.
When asked if he had any regrets about moving to Venice, Tom responds with uncharacteristic brevity: ‘None.’
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