‘We are the oldest hotel in Amsterdam – we could even say we were a hotel before hotels existed…’ guest relations manager Martha tells me, as I’m whisked off on a private tour of the Tivoli Doelen.
And while she’s technically right – it is the oldest five-star hotel in the city, as recognised by the Michelin Guide – that’s really just one small part of the bigger picture.
Set in the Dutch capital’s historic city centre along the Kloveniersburgwal canal, the Tivoli Doelen is a key part of Amsterdam’s rich history.
Guests aren’t just treated to plush interiors, a concept-led restaurant and world-class service worthy of, not one, but two Michelin Keys; they’re stepping into the world – and mind – of the Netherlands’s most famous painter: Rembrandt.
Why, you might ask, is the legendary artist so integral to the hotel?
In the 17th century, Rembrandt van Rijn lived next door and used the building’s first floor to host aristocrats and sketch his masterpieces.
His iconic The Night Watch, completed in 1642, hung on the Tivoli Doelen’s wall for more than 70 years before moving to the Rijksmuseum.
The very wall where it once was remains untouched in the hotel’s Rembrandt Suite, which now houses a breathtaking replica.
Jowena Riley (look closer and you’ll spot her in Rembrandt Square!) documents her stay at the Tivoli Doelen – Amsterdam’s oldest five-star hotel and former neighbouring property to Dutch painter Rembrandt van Rijn
The 16th century Tivoli Doelen, set along the Kloveniersburgwal canal, is a key part of Amsterdam’s history
Rembrandt van Rijn (pictured) lived next door and used the building’s first floor to host aristocrats and sketch his masterpieces in the 17th century
The hotel has 81 rooms and suites, each with a subtle nod to the painter’s work – from The Night Watch to Man in a Turban and The Storm on the Sea of Galilee.
Just outside my canal-view suite, a personalised placard sits above room 414, displaying what looks like a knight from Rembrandt’s most famous painting.
Next door, room 413 features a fragment of a drummer from the same piece.
As I wander down the corridor, each door reveals a single detail from one of his works, prompting guests to guess where it’s from. For me, it becomes a fun little game.
But before I delve into my room’s interiors, my standout meal at Omber, the unexpected stories from my private tour and my stroll to nearby Rembrandt Square, let me rewind to my arrival.
As my companion and I step out of our transfer, we’re instantly taken aback by the location.
Tucked along a quiet street just minutes from popular museums and attractions – the Tivoli Doelen somehow feels like a retreat from the cyclists, tourists and revellers weaving their way through the city.
Inside, we’re warmly welcomed by Teresa, assistant manager of the front desk, who offers us a drink: water, tea, coffee or a glass of cava (all guests are offered this).
As we sip our bubbly, she talks us through the details of our stay and finishes by inviting us to join managers and fellow guests at the hotel’s daily happy hour.
‘Happy hour?’ I repeat, a tad perplexed.
Pictured: The ornate main lobby at the Tivoli Doelen, complete with plush teal carpet
The hotel’s Omber restaurant is where the Dutch painter’s artistic approach comes to life through food and drink
Outside Jowena’s Superior Room, a unique placard displays what looks like a knight from Rembrandt’s most famous painting, The Night Watch
Jowena’s Canal-View Suite offers a stunning view of the Kloveniersburgwal – and there’s plenty of seating spots close to the window to watch cyclists, tourists and revellers weaving their way through the city
Each evening, she explains, guests are treated to a complimentary drink and snack at the hotel’s restaurant and bar.
It’s just one of the many bespoke touches, alongside valet parking, 24-hour room service, airport transfers, massage treatments, an exclusive boat jetty and even a nanny service.
With just under an hour before happy hour begins, I head up to my fourth floor room – where I’m left wide-eyed as I cross the plush carpet and step into a vast, airy bedroom that feels like a canvas itself.
White is the dominant colour in this room – white sheets, white curtains and white walls provide a fresh feel, while splashes of deep red, ochres and rich browns appear in ornaments, cushions, and other soft furnishings.
‘Clever’, I think, as these were the primary pigments used by Rembrandt to create the dramatic scenes in his work.
The king-size bed takes centre stage here, while a sofa, coffee table and two cushioned chairs line the walls, offering the perfect spot to sit and watch life drift by along the canal below.
After pulling out my evening outfit, I head to the spacious bathroom to get ready and I take in the classic black-and-white tiling, the generous walk-in shower and the double sinks.
Fresh flowers and Lalique toiletries – from cotton pads and shower caps, to hand cream and lip balm – are neatly laid out across the vanity.
The service here is unparalleled; if you happen to be celebrating a special occasion, expect fresh fruit, a thoughtful note and regional cheese!
Soon, we head down to Omber bar for our complimentary drink before moving into the adjoining restaurant for dinner.
As we sip our second glass of cava, our waiter explains that Omber’s wine list pays tribute to Saskia – Rembrandt’s wife – featuring bottles from wineries owned, led or represented by female winemakers.
The bar’s mixologist has also created several signature cocktails inspired by stories and famous figures connected to the hotel.
I order the Chiaroscuro – a nod to Rembrandt’s signature light-and-shadow technique – before browsing the menu.
Made of coffee infused vodka, cream de cacao and espresso ice, it’s perhaps one of the best variations of espresso martinis I’ve ever had.
It’s creamy, moreish, but still boozy enough that I’m nursing it for a good hour before I decide on another drink.
What I soon discover is that Omber is more than just a restaurant, it’s an immersive dining experience inspired by the Dutch master’s artistic approach.
Textured elements mimic brushstrokes, and colour palettes echo Rembrandt’s paintings, turning each plate into something that feels like art.
We go for the three-course set menu and I choose Omber’s Colour Study to start – Dutch vegetables with tomato dressing – followed by Maiden’s Tenderloin: perfectly cooked beef served with creamy celeriac, demi-glace and a green salad.
Each dish arrives looking like a composition, and tastes just as good. The vegetables are crisp and fresh, while the tenderloin is soft and beautifully seasoned, the demi-glace adding just the right touch of sweetness.
I try a bite of my companion’s veal cheek with pumpkin mash – equally delicious.
The creamy Chiaroscuro, an espresso martini featuring coffee-infused vodka, is made using Rembrandt’s signature light-and-shadow technique
At Omber, every plate looks like a beautiful composition
Breakfast options include a buffet, a tiered selection of cakes and scones, and dishes like Eggs Benedict that can be cooked to order
After a blissful night’s sleep and a generous buffet breakfast – with options like Eggs Benedict and fresh crêpes available on request – I meet Martha the next morning to dive deeper into the hotel’s history.
She leads me through hallways and rooms once visited by royalty and celebrities. On the first floor, she tells me, The Beatles stayed here in the 1960s, sparking a frenzy of fans along the canals.
Other dignitaries hosted at the hotel include Queen Victoria, who stayed as a guest during her 63-year reign in the 19th century. Then there was Empress Elisabeth of Austria – Sisi – who found comfort here during an extended stay in the late 1800s.
‘She would book 40 rooms – 20 just for her luggage’, Martha says.
She also points out an intriguing detail: the ground and first floors are more ornate, with higher ceilings and marble floors hidden beneath the carpet, while the upper floors are simpler, with wood flooring and lower ceilings.
Back in the 16th century, before lifts existed, the ultra-wealthy preferred to stay on the lower floors to avoid climbing stairs – a stark contrast to today, when penthouses are preferred and privacy is found at the top.
We’re then invited to take a look inside the Rembrandt Suite, where we sit for a few moments in a part of the room that has been cleverly designed to emulate a gallery space, and marvel at the giant replica of The Night Watch on the wall.
Pictured: The Beatles doing a spot of sightseeing in Amsterdam in the 1960s. During a two-night concert tour in the city, the band stayed at the Tivoli Doelen, sparking a frenzy of fans
Room 105 is the Rembrandt Suite, where the famous Night Watch painting used to hang centuries ago
The ground and first floors in the hotel are more ornate than the upper floors – this is because the ultra-wealthy preferred to stay on the lower floors to avoid the stairs in the 16th century
At Rembrandt Square, just a three minute walk from Tivoli Doelen, you’ll find plenty of shops, cafés, bars and subtle odes to the painter – can you spot any?
We conclude our second day with a three-minute walk to Rembrandt Square, a bustling hub packed with cafes, restaurants, shops and clubs, where we’re treated to many references to the artist; including his 1852 bronze statue, a huge glittering sign bearing his name, and murals of his works.
Although we don’t have much time to spare (I’m also celebrating my birthday this weekend), it’s worth noting that the hotel offers guests a range of Rembrandt-inspired activities, including a Rembrandt Paint Making Workshop.
In addition, In the Footsteps of Rembrandt, is a private walking tour that retraces the life and legacy of the painter.
Accompanied by a local guide, guests visit his iconic former home and studio, Rembrandt House Museum, along with the gothic Zuiderkerk and the historic De Waag guild building.
For a truly unique blend of 17th century history and modern city life when you’re next in Amsterdam, the Tivoli Doelen is the ultimate destination.
You’ll find a masterpiece wherever you look; whether you’re tucking into a meal, observing the décor in your room, taking walks along the canal, or admiring iconic artworks that would go on to shape the city’s history.
TRAVEL FACTS
Rooms at Tivoli Doelen start from £223 per night. ‘Rembrandt Paint Making Workshop’ and ‘In the Footsteps of Rembrandt’ experience prices are available on request, tivolihotels.com.
Tickets to The Rembrandt House Museum cost €23.50 (£20) for adults, €15 (£13) for students/youth (up to 25), and €8 (£6.99) for children (6-17), rembrandthuis.nl.
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