An elderly woman selling Eastern Orthodox icons from her shop on the Mount Athos border looks concerned on hearing that we come from Britain.
‘How is Carlos?’ she says. ‘He needs to come here as soon as possible’.
By Carlos, she means King Charles III, who first set foot on the ‘Holy Mountain’ in north east Greece shortly after the death of Princess Diana and has visited on several other occasions.
He may be the Supreme Governor of the Church of England and Defender of the Faith, but the King has long held a devout interest in the Greek Orthodox Church, into which his father, Prince Philip, was baptized.
While receiving treatment for his cancer, the King has had to curtail his travels – but has sought spiritual guidance from his friend, Archimandrite Ephraim, Abbot of the Vatopedi monastery, one of 20 religious communities on Mount Athos.
‘Yes, he has been in contact since his diagnosis and I believe he’ll overcome it,’ the 67-year-old abbot has told a Greek newspaper.
Some 2,000 monks live on Mount Athos, the most easterly of the three Halkidiki peninsulas, about 90 minutes from Thessaloniki.
The 130 square mile Mount Athos promontory is a country within a country – protected by Greece but autonomous.
Mark Palmer visits Mount Athos, in Greece, which is home to several monastaries – including Vatopedi, where King Charles has been known to seek spiritual guidance
King Charles first set foot on the ‘Holy Mountain’ in north east Greece shortly after the death of Princess Diana, and has reportedly visited on several other occasions
Some 2,000 monks live on Mount Athos, the most easterly of the three Halkidiki peninsulas, about 90 minutes from Thessaloniki
You can apply to stay, free of charge, in one of the monasteries, some of which cling to the spectacular rock face overlooking the Aegean Sea, but you will be expected to rise at 3am for prayers and work to earn your keep.
The ‘you’ needs clarification.
No women are allowed within 500 metres of the coastline. Even female domestic animals are banned – apart from cats.
Which is why at first it feels almost rude to stroll barefoot on the mile long beach, refreshment in hand, at the Eagles Palace hotel, with austere Mount Athos looming large in the distance.
But after less than 24 hours, any such thoughts are dissolved, not least because, despite its size (157 rooms in the main building and 42 villas with pools on the hill above it) there’s a serenity about this family-owned resort, in part due to the exceptionable kindness of the young staff.
It occupies a fabulous position on a sublime stretch of beach – a mixture of sand and shingles – with views across to the island of Ammouliani, famous for its pristine clear water.
At times, there’s almost a Caribbean vibe, but with superior food. On our first night, we eat in the hotel’s taverna on a pontoon by the beach, where the home-made tzatziki belongs to a different universe from those plastic tubs you find in our supermarkets.
There are four other restaurants, all at different price points; a fabulous spa and various children’s clubs – but there’s so much room that it never feels crowded.
While male visitors are able to stay at one of the monasteries free of charge, Mark opts for the family-owned Eagles Palace resort, with 157 rooms in the main building, and 42 villas wih pools
After a couple of days, we start wondering why so many Britons flock to the often-crowded Greek islands when the mainland has so much to offer.
But, of course, no other part of the mainland has a holy mountain in its midst.
The closest village to Mount Athos is Ouranoupoli. As soon as you try to pronounce it, the taxi driver knows where you mean.
The Byzantine tower of Ouranoupoli is its main landmark, built in the 13th century and standing on the edge of the harbour, visible from miles away – as if serving as an unilluminated lighthouse.
On the one main street, many of the shops sell the exact same things: garish depictions of Orthodox saints, crosses, chalices studded with jewels.
Visiting monks in black robes and with long grey beards lend the place a sense of other worldliness as they mingle with those who are here at the start or finish of what could be a life-changing pilgrimage.
The best way to see the monasteries is by boat. You can board a public one from Ouranoupoli, with a recorded commentary, but if staying at the Eagles Resort, there’s the chance to experiencing it with the hotel’s boatman, who knows his stuff.
Rather than a guidebook we take with us, the acclaimed account of Mount Athos, written by Robert Byron in 1927 when he was only 22.
‘The closest village to Mount Athos is Ouranoupoli. As soon as you try to pronounce it, the taxi driver knows where you mean,’ says Mark
It’s called The Station and we wonder why.
Only in the final paragraph does it become clear when Byron (no relation to Lord Byron) writes how ‘there is a lament in the wind’s talk to the marrows of life…where the dark is moving up from the water.
There, carried high on a bank of clouds, hovers a shape, a triangle in the sky. This is the Holy Mountain Athos, station of a faith where all the years have stopped’.
The King is known to be an admirer of Byron’s writing – and we leave Mount Athos hoping that he – ‘Carlos’ – will soon be well enough to make another visit.
And if he’s not quite up to those early morning starts with the monks then one of the secluded villas at Eagles Resort might well be just what the doctor ordered.
TRAVEL FACTS
British Airways Holidays (britishairways.com) offers seven nights B&B at Eagles Palace (eaglesresort.gr) from £769pp + €52.50pp Environmental Fee (payable locally), including return flights from London Heathrow and one checked bag pp for stays 1–31 May 2026 if booked by 26 Oct 2025.
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