Up in the Arctic Circle, remote Greenland – much discussed of late thanks to President Donald Trump’s desire to own it – has long held a mystique.
Most of the territory is covered by an uninhabitable, permanent ice-sheet and, despite being the world’s largest island, its population is a mere 56,000, most of whom are native Inuit.
We know from news stories that Greenland is part of the Kingdom of Denmark – and the autonomous territory plus the Danes alike want nothing to do with Trump, preferring to run their own affairs.
Yet in this scary new world order, the future is hard to predict. What is certain, however, is that this fascinating destination has never been easier to reach.
A year ago, a new international airport opened serving its capital Nuuk on the south-west coast, so you can now fly direct from Copenhagen or Reykjavik.
Greenland lacks connecting roads, so cruising the coast is the best way to explore.
I’m joining the new 490-passenger MS Fridtjof Nansen at Nuuk for a two-week voyage.
Warm welcome, chilly setting: Nuuk, the capital of Greenland, can be easily accessed via Copenhagen, or Reykjavik
Ahoy: Travel writer Jo Kessel embarked on a two-week cruise in the country
All aboard: Taking a ride on the MS Fridtjof Nansen, Jo discovered the magnificent scenery
Highlights include experiencing Inuit culture, kayaking off-the-beaten-track, spotting wildlife (polar bear sightings are possible) and wilderness hikes.
Before we set sail, however, I investigate Nuuk. Nearly half of Greenland’s population lives here, and there’s a frontier feel.
A cluster of colourful clapboard houses is sprinkled along the coast and the main supermarket trades Danish produce in Danish krone.
The MS Fridtjof Nansen features an observation deck plus a pool, hot tubs and running track.
My spacious cabin has blackout curtains – to keep out the midnight sun – plus sleek Scandi-chic decor.
We’re going in the summer (occasionally T-shirt weather, mainly layers required) heading north to the ice fjord of Ilulissat, where I wake to find our ship encircled by towering icebergs. Scientists believe that the iceberg that sank the Titanic had drifted from here.
You can admire the fjord from a mile-long boardwalk. Here, a strange sound turns my head – it’s a whale a few yards away, making blowhole exhalations.
Greenland offers nature at its rawest, most awe-inspiring and unpredictable. One moment it’s sunny, the next it snows – even in August when you can enjoy a riot of wildflowers, including beautiful roseroot and yellow poppies.
New pals: Jo befriended local grandmother Cecilia, who gave her a warm welcome
Glacier grandeur: The natural scenery in and around Greenland is majestic
Whale, hello there! Wildlife watching tours are a popular activity among tourists
We explore on guided hikes, kayaks and in small Zodiac boats, spotting seals, more whales and seabirds.
My favourite experience is ‘kaffemik’, an Inuit tradition whereby visitors are invited into local homes.
At Qaqortoq (population 3,000), gran Cecilia welcomes me for coffee and apple pie. Language is a barrier so photos do the talking, with her showing pictures of her daughter’s wedding.
Greenland is a special place. I only hope the White House is just posturing. But in case not, my advice is to go now.
TRAVEL FACTS
Fly from Copenhagen to Nuuk with Air Greenland, return flights from £268, airgreenland.com
A 13-day cruise on MS Fridtjof Nansen is from £8,581pp all-inclusive, with local flights plus pre- and post-cruise hotel stays in Reykjavik. Next departure July 3 (travelhx.com).
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