I have two kids (six and two), a husband, a house, a busy job… and about a dozen unfinished holiday itineraries.
And I can’t be the only one who would like to explore new lands but mentally can’t take on the planning. Our minds are so overflowing with life admin that when we finally want a break, it’s just another thing to add to the workload.
Well, not only am I refusing to gatekeep the best road trip I have ever been on, but I am going to lay out my route in simple steps. It includes some of the best family-friendly food, treats, things to do and places to stay in one beautiful region.
First up, my main tip is to do an easy-to-navigate circuit with the same start and end point, and what better loop is there to do than Victoria’s Great Ocean Road?
What better loop is there to do than Victoria’s Great Ocean Road ?
Flight game changers are always iPads, individual headphones and child-friendly suitcases
A common myth is that the Great Ocean Road is best suited as either a day trip from Melbourne or a road trip for those living in Victoria. I grabbed cheap flights from Sydney and flew straight into Avalon Airport in Geelong – rather than Melbourne itself – to shave two hours off the driving before we even began.
Now a timing tip: Cross-check each state’s school holiday periods.
I quickly realised that the second week of NSW’s winter school holidays do not overlap with Victoria’s school holidays, which means that you can enjoy empty venues AND your children do not need to miss school. A double win!
Now, I can hear you asking, ‘Victoria in WINTER?!’ Let me tell you, it’s like we stumbled upon a little known secret! For large portions of the day we were the only car on the road and we didn’t battle for view points! Winter and the shoulder seasons of Spring and Autumn are far superior for having these spectacular sites to yourself, if you are prepared to rug up. But I am getting ahead of myself.
Once we landed in Geelong, we picked up our hire car (with one car seat and one booster seat added to the hire) and instantly hit the road to the picturesque sea-side city of Warrnambool.
Yep, we’re doing the Great Ocean Road backwards! Or, as locals call it, ‘The Flipper’.
To break up the inland drive, we stretched our legs at Colac Botanic Gardens with its nostalgic playground and water views. You can drive your car through the gardens on a gravel path in inclement weather.
There are lots of food options here in town, including a café at the gardens.
Before checking into our accommodation in Warrnambool, we spent a few hours at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum, which exceeded our expectations. You don’t want to go too late in the day as you won’t get the full experience of this bustling community.
The museum is actually a historic village, giving a realistic glimpse into what life was like in the 19th century port and town.
We gazed upon shipwreck artefacts, wandered the cobblestone streets, watched demonstrations in shopfronts by those in full period costume, climbed the lighthouse and fed the farm animals.
They also give children a checklist of attractions to find, as part of a self-guided tour. It was a hit!
The Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum is actually a historic village
We gazed upon shipwreck artefacts, wandered the cobblestone streets, watched demonstrations in shopfronts by those in full period costume
The coastal chic Lady Bay Resort, which is perfectly located a few minutes drive from many attractions, making it the ideal place to base yourself
We checked into our room at the coastal chic Lady Bay Resort, which is perfectly located a few minutes drive from many attractions, making it the ideal place to base yourself.
If you’re travelling with two families you can get joining rooms. Ours had a balcony with sweeping views over the Merri River, a spacious bathroom and living area, a full kitchen and comfortable beds.
Even more convenient is the downstairs Lady Bay Resort Restaurant & Bar, which provided a delicious early and quick dinner – try the steak!
I was a little disappointed we had to rush off as the atmosphere was warm and relaxed, but alas, once night fell we were due back at Flagstaff Hill for the dramatic Sound and Light Show, now called ‘Tales of the Shipwreck Coast.’
The dramatic Sound and Light Show is called ‘Tales of the Shipwreck Coast’
With a lantern in hand, we walked back down the pebble stoned laneway with our group to immerse ourselves in the stories of the whaling industry, spectacular cliffs and subsequent shipwrecks. It operates in all weather, and don’t worry, you sit undercover. My advice is to take a blanket and get really snuggly as you watch the mesmerising state-of-the-art production.
The next morning, we ducked off to THE must-do breakfast spot in the area: Pavilion Cafe and Bar.
You can sit outside in nice weather or stay warm inside and look out to the beach from their floor-to-ceiling windows. During the weekdays, you can watch the local racehorses take their morning training swim from your table.
Our friendly waitress mused that she sometimes forgot the viewing was so special and unique, considering she saw it so often.
Apart from the incredible coffee and babyccinos, my recommendations are the kids’ pancakes (served with a holiday treat of maple syrup and ice-cream) and the wild rice porridge, topped with spiced pears, sticky dates and pecans.
The must-do breakfast spot in the area is the Pavilion Café and Bar
During the weekdays, you can watch the local racehorses take their morning training swim
Warm, nourished and ready to start our day, the kids were eager to spot some whales so we hit the nearby Logans Beach Whale Viewing Platform.
Whales migrate between May and September so this is yet another reason why winter and spring is the perfect time to visit this part of Australia. The rock shelf protects the bay allowing Southern Right Whales to bring their calves where Orcas cannot detect them. If the platform is busy, it suggests whales are about. Bring some binoculars!
After a short jaunt in the car, our first look at the cliffs that supposedly rival those of Mordor was the Bay of Martyrs and then, a few minutes further down the road, the Bay of Islands. What an introduction!
The wind was whipping up the sea in a ferocious manner, which made it even more incredible to witness. There are steps to the beach, but with the children we were content with enjoying the lookouts.
We turned off the main road to warm up again at the inconspicuous Peterborough General Store & Takeaway. While we thought we would grab takeaway to eat later when we got hungry, their warm hospitality and local tips meant we ended up enjoying a hot meal of chicken and chips in-store. It also doubles as a post office and has some cute souvenirs!
After a quick reset, we were off again, first to London Bridge (my personal favourite) and then to what is known as the ‘jewel in the crown of the Great Ocean Road’: the 12 Apostles.
My son, having been poring over pictures of Australia’s heritage listed sites in one of his favourite children’s books for the past few months, was particularly excited to see the limestone stacks in real life. It is the number one visited attraction in the area and has a brand new, impressive lookout to match, called Saddles Lookout.
Park at the visitor centre and take the tunnel under the Great Ocean Road to extensive boardwalk and viewing platforms. The walk and sightseeing took slightly longer than we thought, so make sure you leave adequate time to properly enjoy the view.
Logans Beach Whale Viewing Platform
Logans Beach Whale Viewing Platform
My son loved the viewing platforms (left) and London Bridge (right) was my personal favourite
The Bay of Martyrs and the Bay of Islands
There is a brand new, impressive lookout at the 12 Apostles, called Saddles Lookout
If you have googled the Great Ocean Road in advance, you have likely seen Wildlife Wonders pop up as a stop suggestion.
Just like the maritime museum, it wasn’t what I expected. In contrast to a city zoo, you are led on a small and intimate 90-minute guided bush walk through the local ecosystem, learning about wildlife native to the Otways region. Mr-Six was the teacher’s pet, eagerly pointing out hiding koalas and pademelons to the group.
Our guide handed out binoculars, ear pieces and ponchos (with child-friendly sized ones available, too, which they loved)
The all-abilities 1.4km walking path allows room for a pram or wheelchair, making it perfect for the whole family. Make sure you grab a cookie and juice for afternoon tea on the way out.
Wildlife Wonders
We stopped off for an early dinner at Apollo Bay Hotel – a stylish venue on the main street in town
We stopped off for an early dinner at Apollo Bay Hotel – a stylish venue on the main street in town overlooking the foreshore. It was buzzing with people socialising under its alfresco umbrellas and around the pool table, but was equally as welcoming and comfortable for children with drawing packs and traditional yet delicious pub fare.
The kids were ready to fall into bed and luckily for us, the quiet Marengo Family Caravan Park was just a few minutes drive outside of Apollo Bay. The two-bedroom cabin sleeps five, making it an affordable option perfectly sized for families.
We woke to the most amazing sunrise over the water visible from our window and balcony as the park boasts full beach frontage. Given that we were spending two nights at Marengo Family Caravan Park, it meant that we had an extra day in the area to see sites tourists often zoom past.
First up, we found Cup of Chino, a blink-and-you-will-miss-it café tucked away on a back street, which has only been in operation for a few months. It is already a local foodie haven with specialty coffee, house-made cakes and the best thin-and-crispy moreish sandwiches for any time of the day.
I opted for the pumpkin option and my husband and kids enjoyed a classic ham and cheese. I am now a paninis-for-breakfast convert with the simple, fresh food being remarkably enjoyable. Not to mention the couple who run it are warm and inviting. They have drawing books for kids (thank you, thank you, thank you) and our little reviewers reported back that they were happy with the baby chinos.
The kids were ready to fall into bed and luckily for us, the quiet Marengo Family Caravan Park was just a few minutes drive outside of Apollo Bay
Cup of Chino is a blink-and-you-will-miss-it café tucked away on a back street
Now onto the quaint 1848 lightstation, 90m above where the Bass Strait and the Southern Ocean collide, and historically nicknamed ‘Beacon of Hope’ for all the sea-weary sailors finally spotting Australia’s coast.
The kids, with maps in hands and the sun out, were thrilled to navigate us around the WWII radar bunker and the lighthouse itself. We joined a talk to hear more tragic tales of shipwreck along this beautiful yet tormenting coastline and why this has always been one of Australia’s most important lighthouses.
Now onto the quaint 1848 lightstation, 90m above where the Bass Strait and the Southern Ocean collide, and historically nicknamed ‘Beacon of Hope’
Before heading off, we popped into the delightful tearooms for some scones.
Already excited by the lighthouse, the kids were thrilled to hear that our next stop was the Otway Fly. If you are brave enough (or realistically, tall enough – sorry, son!) you can opt to fly 30 metres high from tree to tree on the Zipline Tour, which takes approximately two-and-a-half hours.
We settled for the one-hour 25metre-high elevated walkway – the southern hemisphere’s tallest! – through the Mountain Ash and Beech forest, where we climbed the tower and walked out on the cantilevered lookout.
Back in town, we treated the children (and ourselves) to award-winning Dooley’s Premium Ice Cream
There are plenty of lunch options at Otway Fly to enjoy before we zigzagged our way back to Apollo Bay
My number one tip is take gumboots and ponchos as you start with a light rainforest walk to access the walkway. It was such a unique perspective of the Otway Ranges and a cool experience for both my children and my nature-loving husband and I.
There are plenty of lunch options at Otway Fly to enjoy before we zigzagged our way back to Apollo Bay. If it’s raining or you are a nervous driver, I would recommend going back the way you came but if you have time, this is a beautiful, albeit slower drive and you can stop to enjoy Hopetoun Falls and The Redwoods on the way.
Back in town, we treated the children (and ourselves) to award-winning Dooley’s Premium Ice Cream, which is made in-house. It was hard to pick a flavour, my children giggling over vegemite ice cream and ‘unicorn poo.’
Then after returning to the caravan park we shook off our travel legs by exploring the rock pools at the beach and had a climb on the playground (great for older kids!).
We had driven past Great Ocean Road Brewhouse earlier in the day so went back for dinner. Loved by locals, it is cosy and inviting with a big central fireplace and surrounding armchairs with TVs playing sports on the walls. If you are a beer lover, the Brewhouse is a craft beer haven with over 100 craft beers on offer and the food matched well.
Great Ocean Road Brewhouse
We couldn’t leave Apollo Bay without saying hello to friendly sisters Sally and Jane who run the popular Apollo Bay Bakery
The next morning we almost didn’t have room for more but we knew we couldn’t leave Apollo Bay without saying hello to friendly sisters Sally and Jane who run the popular Apollo Bay Bakery. You have to try their signature Scallop Pie.
I was equally as impressed that a bakery had several dairy-free, gluten-free and vegan options – their glass windows were stuffed with cakes, salad rolls, pies and sweets. We selected a few options, and ordered coffees to fuel us for another day of travel. The bakery was packed but there was plenty of room to dine in and the sisters ran around greeting everyone.
The food and the people – two elements fast becoming the most impressive feature of this trip – move over, cliffs!
Finally, we got to drive the iconic stretch of the Great Ocean Road from Apollo Bay through to Anglesea, the windy road curving around almost on top of the sandy beaches. My husband uttered the words, ‘This is what I was waiting for!’
We got to drive the iconic stretch of the Great Ocean Road from Apollo Bay through to Anglesea, the windy road curving around almost on top of the sandy beaches
As if to thank us for our patience, we were rewarded with a beautiful rainbow and empty roads that led us to one of the Great Otway National Park’s magnificent waterfalls – Sheoak Falls
Great Otway National Park’s magnificent waterfalls – Sheoak Falls
As if to thank us for our patience, we were rewarded with a beautiful rainbow and empty roads that led us to one of the Great Otway National Park’s magnificent waterfalls – Sheoak Falls.
If you start at Sheoak Falls Carpark, it is a tranquil walk and easy for kids to do. If you want a longer 3.6km trail (one way) you could park your car at Sheoak Picnic Area which has better facilities. Either way, at the end, you will be rewarded with a 15m cascade down a sheer rock face into a pool surrounded by trees. You can continue up to see Swallow Cave but it’s quite a climb, so we returned to the car via the short walk.
If you have time, you can also stop off at Teddy’s Lookout, Lorne Pier and Torquay, home of famous Bells Beach.
As a final hurrah before flying home, we enjoyed a fun chocolate making class at the Great Ocean Road Chocolaterie and Ice Creamery
As a final hurrah before flying home, we enjoyed a fun chocolate making class at the Great Ocean Road Chocolaterie and Ice Creamery.
A chef took us through all of the different flavours before my kids decorated their own giant ‘lollipop’. Make sure you have room in your carry-on to take it home with you, as there’s no way they’re leaving that behind!
If you don’t have time for a class, you must still pop in: there’s a café for lunch and a huge expanse of lawn for the kids to burn energy, complete with chickens, as well as free chocolate and ice cream tastings on arrival and aisles upon aisles of take-home treats.
And when you run out of your stash at home, don’t worry they deliver chocolate to anywhere in Australia – I may have already ordered the rich and decadent coffee deluxe slice, to try to keep the holiday going on and on in my heart!
HIDDEN FOODIE GEMS ON THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD
Dinner at Lady Bay Resort Restaurant & Bar
Breakfast at Pavilion Cafe and Bar
Lunch at Peterborough General Store & Takeaway
Dinner at Apollo Bay Hotel
Panini’s for breakfast at Cup of Chino, Apollo Bay
Morning tea at Cape Otway Lighthouse (try the scones!)
Afternoon tea at Dooley’s Ice Cream
Dinner at Great Ocean Road Brewhouse
Breakfast at Apollo Bay Bakery
Morning tea at Great Ocean Road Chocolaterie and Ice Creamery
Yvette Kelly was a guest of Great Ocean Road Regional Tourism
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