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Malta holidays: Checking out the world-class restaurants now making the island a gourmet destination

Vibrant: Malta is being recognised as a world-class foodie destination. Pictured is a colourful street in its capital, Valletta

Waiters at the romantic rooftop restaurant describe the dishes with a wonderful mix of enthusiasm, passion and pride. Diners are distracted briefly as another gleaming super-yacht eases into Valletta’s Grand Harbour far below.

And so begins another magical meal in Malta.

Here at Michelin-starred Ion Harbour, the first course of our tasting menu is served at sunset with aged Kaluga caviar, soaked in beef and oyster tartare and spritzed with ice-cold sake. Sicilian red prawns follow, filled with black truffle and wrapped in a sliver of lomo ham.

Later, as diamonds of light begin to dance across the distant water, our waiter proudly describes a dish of Gillardeau oysters with champagne sabayon, another dash of caviar and a fine dusting of Indian long pepper.

It’s safe to say that Malta is in the midst of an extraordinary culinary transformation. World-class restaurants, boutique hotels and award-winning vineyards have sprung up across the island. In typically understated style, it has become the Mediterranean’s go-to spot for a gourmet mini-break.

Food-lovers should start their adventure as I did, amid the rooftops of Valletta at the restaurant led by star chef Alex Dilling and part of the Iniala Harbour House hotel.

‘Food-lovers should start their adventure as I did, amid the rooftops of Valletta (pictured),’ says Neil

Magical: The Michelin-starred Ion Harbour rooftop restaurant, which overlooks Valletta’s Grand Harbour

A beautifully presented fish dish at Ion Harbour

Next stop should be the ancient walled city of Mdina. Step through the main gate to find silent, largely car-free, twisting cobbled streets which reveal a series of baroque palaces, churches, convents and catacombs. 

While Game Of Thrones fans flock to visit key filming locations, fine dining is its main attraction, and the De Mondion restaurant, part of the Xara Palace hotel, is the place to savour it.

It’s another Michelin-star restaurant (there are five on the island) and meals begin with the likes of Gozitan octopus with unagi (freshwater eel), vegetable linguine and capers. 

Main courses include a modern take on Malta’s traditional fish soup, aljotta, now made with grouper, mussels and shiitake mushrooms. 

For a sweet twist on dessert there are Araguani chocolates made with Venezuelan cocoa beans and an unlikely mix of squash, honey and espresso.

Once more, each course is meticulously described by staff who clearly love each creative dish they serve.

Wander through the twisting cobbled streets of the ancient walled city of Mdina – fine dining is its main attraction 

At the De Mondion restaurant, pictured, meals begin with the likes of Gozitan octopus with unagi (freshwater eel), followed by a modern take on Malta’s traditional fish soup, aljotta

Above are two delicately presented dishes at Mdina’s De Mondion, one of five Michelin-star restaurants in Malta. Each course is meticulously described by staff who clearly love each creative dish they serve

The De Mondion restaurant is part of the Xara Palace hotel in Mdina. Above is one of the hotel’s stylish suites

Drive across Malta (it’s 17 miles long and nine miles wide) and you may stumble on another surprise – one of a small but growing band of award-winning vineyards.

Connoisseurs increasingly praise Maltese wines, but as few are exported, the best way to taste them is on holiday. Labels to look for include Delicata, Marsovin and Ta’ Betta.

Book a private tour at Ta’ Betta in Taz-Ziri and you’ll get to walk around its vines, fig, olive and carob trees before sampling the results in its beautifully restored tasting room.

Make sure to explore Malta’s small but growing band of award-winning vineyards. Labels to look for include Ta’ Betta, whose vineyard is pictured above 

Book a private tour at Ta’ Betta (pictured) and you’ll get to walk around its vines, fig, olive and carob trees

‘Connoisseurs increasingly praise Maltese wines, but as few are exported, the best way to taste them is on holiday,’ says Neil. Above are some tasting tables at Ta’ Betta

Art is another big attraction in Malta – pictured is the stunning interior of St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta, which is home to a new Caravaggio wing 

Prepare for a thrill when you stand in front of Caravaggio’s massive masterpiece, The Beheading Of Saint John The Baptist (pictured)

Back in Valletta, it’s not just restaurants and five-star hotels that reveal how Malta has switched its focus from beach holidays to a more sophisticated cultural experience. Art is another big attraction, and the new Caravaggio Wing of St John’s Co-Cathedral contains two of the artist’s darkest works – prepare for a thrill when you stand in front of his massive masterpiece, The Beheading Of Saint John The Baptist, the only painting to bear his signature.

More recent history also draws visitors. The story of Malta’s fight to survive the Second World War is told in its forts, towers, tunnels and museums. The strategically important island faced some of the most severe bombing of the war – so much so that the entire population was later awarded the George Cross for bravery.

And in bouncing back from such utter devastation, Malta has quietly become one of the most satisfying destinations in the Mediterranean – and not just because of what those amazing chefs serve up. 



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