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Rise and shrine! Direct flights to Japan’s Osaka will put this heavenly region on the map 

Hiro raises his bare thigh and slams his foot on the ground spreading ripples across his man mountain of a body.

He bows at his opponent and, in a vision of manboobs and giant wedgies, they engage in combat; wrestling, pushing, heaving and tugging until one emerges victorious.

Suddenly, it’s my turn. I step into the ring and stare ahead towards the sumo wrestler a few feet away — all 26st of him. A moment later I’m pressed up against his folds of flesh, my face alarmingly close to his armpit as I push with all my might. My feet scramble at the salt-strewn floor while Hiro — a wrestler for 22 years — stands there chuckling.

Breathtaking: The Kumana Hongu Talsha shrine set amid spectacular Japanese scenery 

I’m in the small city of Katsuragi, considered the birthplace of sumo. Located an hour from Osaka in the Kansai region, this is a corner of Japan that has just become more accessible thanks to new British Airways direct flights.

This service from Heathrow to Japan’s second city is big news. Although not quite as big news as the accession of Japan’s emperor, Naruhito, who succeeded to the throne this week on the abdication of his father, Akihito.

Kansai is an area of misty mountains dotted with remote shrines, tropical beaches and tea plantations which will appeal to visitors keen to explore what lies beyond the capital Tokyo. After putting Hiro through his paces (‘You have great potential,’ he jokes), it’s time to move on to Osaka.

Home to three million people, the city is a patchwork of 16th-century castles and 21st-century glass skyscrapers. From my room on the 36th floor of the Conrad Hotel, the view of Dotonbori district, the main restaurant and entertainment area, is dizzying.

Two women wear traditional Japanese costume. Occupying the far southern tip of Kansai, Osaka holds the key to much of Japan’s ancient spiritual heritage

One of the city’s newest five-star addresses, this 164-room hotel gives off a Lost In Translation vibe — think Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson — and is filled with 389 artworks including one by local boy turned renowned sculptor, Kohei Nawa.

And while Osaka is certainly worthy of a few days’ exploration, it’s the experiences that await further afield that prove to be the real temptation.

Travelling south, urban sprawl gives way to rural scenes that surprise and delight. Before long we are surrounded by the crumpled, green peaks of the Kii Peninsula. These mountains are the gateway to Wakayama.

Occupying the far southern tip of Kansai, this city holds the key to much of Japan’s ancient spiritual heritage. For centuries, it has attracted the great and the good of Japanese society and not just for the views.

Nick Boulos says Osaka, pictured, is certainly worthy of a few days’ exploration and that the experiences that await further afield also prove to be a real temptation

For more than 1,000 years, everyone from emperors to humble farmers has walked these peaks seeking peace and purification. Along with Spain’s legendary Camino de Santiago, the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage ranks as one of the world’s great pilgrim routes. A network of trails, it has several options, from gentle hour-long strolls to arduous multi-day treks.

Opting for the easier and shorter route, I feel the frenzied pace of Osaka (and London) slip away as I slice through silent bamboo forests and inch along paths that hug plunging wooded ravines. I pause to enjoy panoramas splashed with cherry blossom. I am feeling more peaceful by the moment.

The climax, a rather spectacular and unexpected one, is our arrival at the grand Shinto shrine of Kumano Hongu Taisha, the hallowed ground where all trails meet. The silence of the forest is broken by the rhythmic chiming of bells and the flapping of flags in the breeze.

A map showing the location of Osaka. British Airways has just started direct flights to the city 


 1. Osaka is famous for its street food and one of the best areas to indulge is Ura-Namba with bustling little covered streets and a charmingly chaotic atmosphere.

2. The Dotonbori Bridge area is the place for karaoke. Expect garish neon lights reflecting on the Dotonbori Canal.

3. The Namba Yasaka Shrine has an entrance shaped like a giant lion’s mouth.

4. At 300 metres, Abeno Harukas is the country’s tallest skyscraper. Take a lift to the observation deck for the best views. Tickets are £10 (

5. You’ll see the Hanshin Tigers baseball team’s yellow and black colours everywhere. The atmosphere at games is electric (

 6. The coolest places for beer are Beer Belly ( and Craft Beer Works Kamikaze (

7. Spa World is a massive attraction with onsen (hot tubs), pools and water slides. It is a lot of fun. Entrance is £8.30 (

8. Osaka is renowned for its budget ‘capsule’ (or pod) hotels with tiny, windowless chambers. ‘Rooms’ are from about £20 (

9. Universal Studios Japan has rides, shows and themed areas including the magical Wizarding World of Harry Potter (

10. The Cup Noodles Museum is a ‘shrine’ to ramen noodles, covering their history and ‘evolution’.    Entrance £2.

 Further information visit and

I watch as worshippers cross the gravel courtyards, clap their hands twice (to announce their arrivals to the deities) and bow their heads in prayer. This is a special place I won’t easily forget. Just down the road, in the valley and dissected by a stream of healing thermal waters, is Yunomine. This is known as an onsen village, centred around natural hot springs.

These healing waters were discovered 1,800 years ago and became an important part of the pilgrimage by offering hot water purification along the way.

It’s still possible to enjoy a spiritual soaking by stripping off, as is custom, for a dip in the stone plunge pool housed in a rickety shed. Barely big enough for two, it makes for quite the intimate experience.

I am feeling rather too British for such pursuits, so choose a riverside dip in the thermal rockpool at the Kawayu Midoriya. A spa hotel somewhat stuck in the Seventies, it models itself on the traditional inn, the ryokan.

Expect sliding paper screens, legless chairs and futon beds. When I visited, guests were strolling around in matching pale green kimonos — even sporting them at dinner. No trip to this part of Japan would be complete without the glittering jewel in its Imperial crown, Kyoto.

Reached in a 15-minute ride from Osaka by Shinkansen bullet train, this enchanting city was the nation’s capital until 1868. It retains much of its ancient character, particularly in the Gion district where geishas once scuttled between teahouses in their elaborate silk costumes and wooden getas (traditional footwear).

From the comfortable Ritz-Carlton hotel, it’s a pleasant 20-minute stroll along the Kamogawa River to Gion.

At first it seems a little soulless and touristy. But delving into the backstreets restores my faith. Here I discover deserted gardens and teahouses serving fragrant cherry blossom tea and sit with elderly locals painting watercolours of a pagoda.

Hunched over their palettes, they look long and hard and produce thoughtful brushstrokes. They seem lost in their individual reveries, drinking in the beauty. It sums up my experience perfectly.


British Airways (0344 493 0787/ flies four times a week from Heathrow to Osaka from £793 return. Abercrombie & Kent ( offers a seven-night trip from £2,500 pp based on two sharing, including flights with BA, accommodation, transfers and some guiding. More information at 



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