This hilly, liberal city in northern California is home to some of the world’s most iconic attractions, from the Golden Gate Bridge to prison island Alcatraz.
But despite having more billionaires than anywhere in the U.S. – it’s only half an hour from Silicon Valley – it’s surprisingly affordable, with cheap public transport making exploring incredibly easy.
WHERE TO STAY
Queen Anne Hotel
Antique furniture is squeezed into every nook of this charming 19th-century Victorian mansion hotel near Japan Town (queenanne.com). Breakfast and afternoon tea (think sherry and homemade cookies) are included and most of its 48 rooms (from £150) come with bath tubs and wooden sleigh beds. It goes big on Christmas decor so come in November/December for a festive treat.
Here’s our budget travel guide to San Francisco, USA, where you can book top hotels for under £150 a night
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With an abundance of books, board games and TVs, this central hotel’s downstairs living room-cum-bar is designed to lure guests out of bed. That said, rooms are funky with pink balloon dogs, red cushions and electronic functions (lights, alarm clock, blinds etc.) controlled via an iPad. There’s also a gym and rooftop terrace.
Prices start from £150 with a buffet breakfast at £16pp citizenm.com/hotel/sanfrancisco.
Cartwright Hotel
This hilly, liberal city in northern California is home to some of the world’s most iconic attractions like the Golden Gate Bridge (above) – cycle across it and you may even spot dolphins
Rooms at this central Best Western hotel (bestwestern.com) might be snug, but they’re clean and comfortable with powerful showers (from £94). There’s free tea and coffee downstairs where chessboards and giant Connect 4s sit on tables next to the fire. The 1913 building overlooks Union Square, so request a room at the back if you don’t want to be disturbed by the ding of cable cars.
Hotel Garrett
With rooms costing £70 a night, this stylish, no-frills hotel (hotelgarrettsf.com) opposite the U.S. Federal Building (where Nancy Pelosi has an office) is a steal. Its 121 comfortable, newly-renovated rooms are well thought out with an abundance of USB sockets and a coffee maker. The location’s good too, a ten-minute walk from Union Square and close to the Opera House, the subway and San Fran’s historic street cars.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Bay Boat Tour
The Blue & Gold Fleet offers a 60-minute cruise that starts at Pier 39 where sea lions laze, takes you under the Golden Gate Bridge and around Alcatraz Island (pictured)
The best way to appreciate San Francisco’s hilly skyline is from the sea and the Blue & Gold Fleet offers a 60-minute ride with a guided commentary. It starts at Pier 39 (where sea lions laze) and sails under the world’s most photographed bridge, the 1.7 mile Golden Gate. Afterwards it circuits the prison island of Alcatraz. The strong Pacific current made it impossible for prisoners to escape… though many tried! (blueandgoldfleet.com)
Bike the Bridge
Feel the vibrations of the Golden Gate Bridge by pedalling across it (unlimitedbiking.com/san-francisco). The 11-mile cycle starts from Ghirardelli Square (home to the oldest chocolate factory in the U.S.) and finishes in the pretty town of Sausalito. Stop on the bridge to watch dolphins. The bikes are yours all day. Either cycle back or hop on the ferry.
Historic cable cars
Take the Powell-Hyde cable car to Lombard Street, pictured here, so you can experience the world’s most crooked street
Buy a £12 one-day tram pass and ride San Francisco’s iconic cable cars up and down its hills as often as you like. Be sure to take the Powell-Hyde line and hop off at Lombard Street so you can walk down (or up) the world’s most crooked street. Then pop into the Cable Car Museum (free) to marvel at these vintage trams and their mechanics. It’s the only transport to run on a cable system instead of a motor (cablecarmuseum.org).
Driverless taxi
San Fran is one of the few places where autonomous taxis are available. Hail one of these robot cars (via an app) and head to hilltop Coit Tower for great views over San Fran. But be warned, there’s a six-month waiting list for the taxis.
WHERE TO EAT
Z&Y
Head to Z&Y restaurant in Chinatown (pictured) to try Chef Han’s famous tea-smoked duck
The moment you tuck in you’ll realise why this no-reservations Chinatown restaurant has a long queue (zandyrestaurant.com). Chef Han (who’s cooked for presidents) is famed for his tea-smoked duck (£28) but his veggies are on another level. Order dry sauteed string beans, stir fried Chinese cabbage and honey cherry tomatoes and get a bag for leftovers.
Pizzeria Delfina
Ingredients at this upmarket Italian are locally sourced. The owner even has his own farm. On the menu are pie pizzas and meatballs the size of oranges (£16). Order sides of squash and Brussels sprouts (both £11 with a chilli kick) and wash down with the restaurant’s very own Californian chardonnay from Sonoma Valley (pizzeriadelfina.com).
Miller & Lux Steakhouse
Steaks aren’t cheap at this celebrity chef restaurant (millerandluxrestaurant.com) in the Mission District, but they’re seriously good. The melt-in-the-mouth 10oz Filet Mignon in Bordelaise sauce (£62) is big enough for two and the creamed kale is a delicious alternative to spinach. Or head to the restaurant’s new Union Square stalls. Their rotisserie chickens and salads make a perfect, cheaper takeout.
Scoma’s
Be sure to visit Scoma’s ‘pier to plate’ fish restaurant, seen above, which is an A-lister favourite – Nicolas Cage, Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston have all eaten here
Come in daylight (or at sunset) to appreciate the waterside setting of this ‘pier to plate’ fish restaurant which is an A-lister favourite – Nicolas Cage, Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston have all eaten here (scomas.com). The steaming £9.50 cup of Clam Chowder is enough for lunch, but if you’ve space splurge on the Combo Louis Salad (piled high with shrimp and crab) or the tomato fish stew called Lazy Man’s Cioppino.
GETTING THERE
America As You Like It (americaasyoulikeit.com/020 8742 8299) offers tailor-made holidays to the U.S. A 7-night B&B stay at the Queen Anne Hotel costs from £1,415pp (two sharing) including return flights from London with Virgin Atlantic. Further information: sftravel.com; visitcalifornia.com; citypass.com/san-francisco.
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