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Boutique hotels, Michelin-star restaurants and designer shops… the British seaside has come a long way since the days of candyfloss and kiss-me-quick hats.
The ‘posh’ factor has definitely been upped – no doubt about that.
Yet while some places have seen upmarket makeovers in recent years which have turned some of them into versions of the Cotswolds on the coast, it’s not all about flash and cash. Old school seaside ‘posh’ is still alive and kicking: perennially elegant places designed in the Victorian era exclusively for a wealthy clientele, perhaps slightly faded these days, but offering decent value and abundant charm.
So, with this in mind and having visited most of Britain’s seaside resorts while researching travel books, here’s my personal pick of the best… new ‘posh’ and old school included.
St Ives, Cornwall
There are plenty of simple pleasures to be had in St Ives, with its sandy beaches and art galleries
Carbis Bay Hotel is set on the area’s most beautiful beach and has a world-class spa – with four restaurants
Often referred to as ‘Chelsea on Sea’, arty St Ives is a tourist honeypot for a reason. It’s a delightful former fishing village, flanked by sandy beaches and dotted with art galleries, most notably Tate St Ives.
This opened in 1994, though artistic connections stretch back much further than that. JMW Turner visited, attracted by its delicate, soft light, as early as 1811, while the art crowd truly moved in during the 1920s and 1930s when the likes of Ben Nicholson and Barbara Hepworth arrived.
It’s retained its ‘class’ ever since. Base yourself at the sleek Harbour Hotel St Ives or a pleasant half an hour’s stroll from the centre at Carbis Bay Hotel, set on the area’s most beautiful beach and where Virginia Woolf once stayed, with a world-class spa and four restaurants.
There are plenty of simple pleasures to be had: take a boat trip to Seal Island to spot seals and, if you’re lucky, a pod of dolphins, or walk the South Coast Path to Clodgy Point for lovely sea views. This is also classic surfing territory, with St Ives Surf School offering group lessons, as well as kayak and paddleboard rentals.
Keep it classy: Book a table at Porthminster Beach Cafe, a Michelin accredited restaurant on Porthminster Beach; from around £40 for two courses (porthminstercafe.co.uk).
Old school or new posh? A bit of each.
Sandbanks, Dorset
When staying in Sandbanks, take the Sandbanks Ferry to Studland for a beautiful beachside walk to the Old Harry Rocks
Base yourself in the stylish The Pig On The Beach hotel in Studland, which has seen celebrities such as Tom Cruise and Jules Knight drop by
This is splash-your-cash, racy posh with a capital ‘P’ – popular with footballers and musicians including the likes of Jamie and Harry Redknapp and Liam Gallagher. Sandbanks’ long, sandy peninsula is backed with multi-million-pound homes, jutting out into the entrance to Poole Harbour.
Beyond sandcastles and salty dips, there’s lots of easy exploring to do. Take a circular cruise from Poole Harbour, the largest natural harbour in Europe, or hop on the Sandbanks Ferry to Studland, for a beautiful beachside walk to the Old Harry Rocks.
Sandbanks is ideal for water sports fans. Poole’s sheltered harbour offers everything from wake-boarding and winging to sailing and paddleboarding. The Watersports Academy offers equipment hire and lessons (thewatersportsacademy.com).
Base yourself in the stylish The Pig On The Beach hotel in Studland, which has seen celebrities such as Tom Cruise and Jules Knight drop by, and has a top restaurant. Or the elegant Harbour Heights hotel is just six minutes walk from the beach.
Keep it classy: Sample the seafood at Rick Stein Sandbanks; two courses from £35 (rickstein.com).
Old school or new posh? New posh.
Aldeburgh, Suffolk
You don’t come to Aldeburgh for bucket and spade pleasures. The long shingle beach is more of a place to walk or buy the catch of the day
Fish and chips is still the town’s signature dish. Join the queue at Aldeburgh Fish and Chips
There’s a pleasantly artsy vibe in Aldeburgh, partly down to composer Benjamin Britten, who lived in the town and started a classical music festival in the 1940s. His home and studio, The Red House, is open to visitors (brittenpearsarts.org).
You don’t come to this genteel seaside town in Suffolk for bucket and spade pleasures. The long shingle beach is more of a place to walk or buy the catch of the day from the fishing boats that pull onto the shore. Meanwhile, younger visitors will love the Aldeburgh Treasure Trail, a two-hour self-guided walk around the town.
It might be understated ‘posh’ in Aldeburgh, but fish and chips is still the town’s signature dish. Join the queue at Aldeburgh Fish and Chips.
My recommendation for where to stay is the elegant Brudenell hotel, where you’ll be lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves. Or try the bijou, six-room The Suffolk hotel.
Keep it classy: Go for a drink at the cocktail bar or book a table at The Suffolk, which has received rave reviews from critics such as Jay Rayner and William Sitwell; two courses from £35.
Old school or new posh? Old school.
Mawgan Porth, Cornwall
Mawgan Porth in Cornwall has a glorious sandy beach, with reliably good surfing and walks along the dramatic South Coast Path
Anywhere that counts Cate Blanchett, Chris Martin and Jason Momoa among its (part-time) residents scores pretty highly on the posh-ometer, and this small Cornish village has a glorious sandy beach, sandwiched between high cliffs and the River Menalhyl estuary.
In spite of the A-list glitz, there are plenty of affordable pastimes, though. Go rock-pooling on the town’s vast swathe of sand, surf the reliable Atlantic waves (with lifeguards keeping an eye every day from April to September) or walk along the dramatic South Coast Path.
Stay at Bedruthan, a 70-year-old clifftop hotel, reinvented as an elegant, Scandi-style retreat.
Keep it classy: Refuel at Catch, a chic, beach-house style restaurant, that – as its name suggests – serves seafood, straight off the boat (catchmawganporthbeach.co.uk).
Old school or new posh? A bit of each.
Worthing, East Sussex
Worthing used to be known as ‘God’s waiting room’, but in recent years it has been reinvented by ex-Londoners and young couples
Keep it classy by dining out at Perch, at the tip of Worthing Pier, which has wonderful views
When I was growing up just along the coast, Worthing was known as ‘God’s waiting room’, for its retired population and snail’s slow pace. But in recent years, an influx of ex-Londoners and young couples unable to afford Brighton have reinvented the Channel-side town.
The beachfront prom is home to the open-air Seafront Gallery, created in 2020. Then there’s the Montague Gallery selling work by local artists (montaguegallery.co.uk). The long shingle beach is safe and clean for swimming, with a down-to-earth, chilled out feel. After a dip, stop for ‘crab sarnies’ (£15) or half a dozen oysters (£18.50) on offer at the friendly Crab Shack (crabshackworthing.co.uk).
Stay at The Brewhouse, which is in a good, central spot, with craft beer tastings on offer in the bar beneath the bedrooms. Or try the stylish Burlington hotel.
Keep it classy: Dine out at Perch, set at the tip of Worthing Pier, with splendid views; two courses from about £30 (perchonthepier.com).
Old school or new posh? New posh.
Lytham St Annes, Lancashire
Pleasures in Lytham St Annes are slow-paced – with Fairhaven Lake, a golf course, or the five-mile beach
Originally designed in the 19th century as a more ‘refined’ sibling resort to neighbouring Blackpool, St Anne’s gradually merged with the fishing village of Lytham to become one of the wealthiest bubbles in the North-west.
Pleasures here are slow-paced. Stroll around Fairhaven Lake, set in a tranquil RSPB reserve, or play a round on the adjacent golf course. Alternatively, enjoy a slightly blurry afternoon sampling gin (or rum) at a tasting at the Lytham Gin Tasting Experience (visitlancashire.com).
The five-mile beach unfolds from the Ribble Estuary, backed by rolling sand dunes, and even though there are donkey rides and a Victorian pier, it’s a world away from Blackpool’s hectic hustle.
Book a room at the Hy Lytham St Annes, which makes a great base, directly across from the beach.
Keep it classy: Drop by for afternoon tea or a cocktail at Barrique (barriquelytham.com).
Old school or new posh? Old school.
Salcombe, Devon
Salcombe in Devon is ridiculously picturesque – and is the country’s priciest seaside spot
Keep it classy by dining at the delightfully named Winking Prawn – or sampling another of the pubs and cafes overlooking the water
Set in an idyllic location on the Kingsbridge estuary, it’s not difficult to see why this stylish slice of Devon coast has overtaken Sandbanks as the country’s priciest seaside spot. Sandwiched between two pristine beaches, the family-friendly North Sands and South Sands, the town is ridiculously picturesque with whitewashed fishermen’s cottages tumbling down to the harbour.
The estuary is usually busy with yachts, while well-heeled crowds keep the pubs and cafes busy – finding a table on one of the terraces overlooking the water can be tricky.
Keep active by hiring a kayak or paddleboard to go out into the still waters of the South Hams or hop on the ferry to Kingsbridge. Doubles at the sophisticated Salcombe Harbour Beach Club Hotel from £175.
Keep it classy: Sample the seafood at the wonderfully named Winking Prawn (winkingprawn.co.uk) on North Shore beach.
Old school or new posh? New posh.
St Andrews, Scotland
The Old Course Hotel is a pricey option, but if you want to be steeped in St Andrews’ golfing history, this is the place
More famous for its greens (on the golf courses) than its blue seas, St Andrews has the ultimate posh pedigree – being home to the university where Prince William met his future wife, Kate Middleton.
It’s the kind of place where university students play polo on the West Sands and the beaches are primarily a backdrop to the St Andrews Links – a clutch of seven golf courses that form the largest complex of its kind in Europe. The Himalayas is a great choice for a spot of gentle putting.
But there’s plenty to do if you don’t swing a club. Visit the 18-acre Botanical Garden, wander around the atmospheric ruins of 15th-century Blackfriars Chapel or settle in for a whisky or three at the Keys Bar, which has more than 300 to choose from.
The Old Course Hotel is a pricey option, but if you want to be steeped in St Andrews’ golfing history, this is the place. Or stay at the stylish Kinnettles Hotel.
Keep it classy: Go for a dozen oysters (£40) and some fizz at Rogue restaurant (rogue-standrews.com).
Old school or new posh? Old school.
Bamburgh, Northumberland
Bamburgh is dominated by its wildly beautiful beach, overlooked by the striking castle with it’s 1,400-year history
Book a table at the Potted Lobster and enjoy seafood platters and locally caught lobster, with two courses starting at £30
Residents of this quiet, history-steeped seaside town might not take kindly to being called posh, but Bamburgh is pricey, with average houses costing over £1million. Genteel rather than glitzy, the town is dominated by its wildly beautiful beach, overlooked by the striking Bamburgh Castle, steeped in 1,400 years of history.
Take a walk through the sand dunes or hop on a boat trip to the Farne Islands to spot seals and puffins. Also visit Alnwick Castle – instantly recognisable from both Downton Abbey and as Hogwarts in the Harry Potter films.
Check into the distinguished Victoria Hotel, right in the heart of town.
Keep it classy: Reserve a table at the Potted Lobster for seafood platters and locally caught lobster; two courses from about £30 (thepottedlobster.co.uk).
Old school or new posh? Old school.
Llandudno, Wales
Llandudno is still owned by the Mostyn family, who oversee everything to ensure that the seafront retains its Victorian feel
The Great Orme tramway climbs 200 metres to the summit of Great Orme, a spectacular limestone headland
If you’ve ever wondered what seaside resorts were like in Victorian days, take a trip to Llandudno; still owned by the Mostyn family, who oversee everything from the colours hotels can paint their frontages to ensuring the seafront remains free of tacky slot machine emporiums and faded chip shops.
The West Shore has a pristine line of townhouses and spotless pier, with Punch and Judy shows, penny arcades and vintage stalls, while the wilder North Shore has spectacular views across to Snowdonia. The Great Orme tramway climbs 200 metres to the summit of Great Orme, a spectacular limestone headland.
Stay at St George’s hotel to keep the Victorian vibe going – it’s a grande dame hotel that’s lost none of its glamour.
Keep it classy: Tuck into a seafood platter for two (£79) with lobster and oysters at the charming Next Door Restaurant (nextdoorrestaurant.co.uk).
Old school or new posh? Old school.
Annabelle Thorpe is the author of The Great Escape: Britain’s 400-year Love Affair with Holidays published by DK Red.
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