Greece’s second city is often overlooked – because Athens draws the big, camera-clicking crowds.
Yet it’s full of interest, including wonderful ancient remains, markets, fine churches, a rich history – plus a long promenade by the Aegean Sea facing Mount Olympus.
Locals practise chalara, which means ‘relaxation… moving in slow motion, stress-free’.
Where to stay
Le Palace Hotel
Thessaloniki, Greece’s second city, is often overshadowed by Athens but it’s ‘full of interest’, says Tom Chesshyre
On a corner near the promenade, Le Palace has smart, newly renovated rooms; some with balconies and partial Aegean Sea views. Breakfast is served in a colourful first-floor dining room. The hotel offers tours to Mount Athos and the striking rock formations at Meteora. Friendly staff.
Doubles from £87 B&B (lepalace.gr).
Egnatia Palace Hotel and Spa
Overlooking Dikastirion Square with its old Greek Orthodox churches and remains of Byzantine fountains, this is a popular choice. The spa comes with a small pool, hot tub, sauna and massage.
Doubles from £88 B&B (egnatiapalace.gr).
Hotel Luxembourg
Thessaloniki has a long promenade by the Aegean Sea facing Mount Olympus. Pictured: The White Tower of Thessaloniki on the waterfront
Expect bright, well-decorated rooms with high windows and leather sofas at this hotel, a short stroll from the sea promenade and a run of chic bars that get busy at sunset.
Parking (tricky in Thessaloniki) is available for £13 a day.
Doubles from £84 B&B (hotelluxembourg.gr).
Colors Urban Hotel
The port city boasts wonderful ancient remains, markets, and fine churches like the Church of St Paul the Apostle, pictured here
This hip little hotel with 37 colourful rooms is in the heart of the vibrant Ladadika neighbourhood, just north of the old port.
The Garden Bar serves pizzas, burgers and craft beers in a conservatory; Royal Ionian Radler ales £3.60.
Doubles from £87 B&B (colorshotel.gr).
What to see and do
The Church of St Demetrius (pictured), the patron saint of Thessaloniki (270-306AD), is an important place of pilgrimage, writes Tom
For fantastic views of Mount Olympus, take the lift or the stairs up the OTE former radio tower (pictured)
Celebrate the saint
The Church of St Demetrius, the patron saint of Thessaloniki (270-306AD), is an important place of pilgrimage.
Demetrius was martyred at this location, then a Roman baths (thessalonikitourism.gr).
Ataturk’s birthplace
Just up the street from the Church of St Demetrius you come to Ataturk House, where Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey, was born in 1881. Entry is free after a security scan.
Archaeology for all
Do not miss the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki, which is one of the finest museums of ancient artefacts in Greece.
The best £7 you’ll spend in the city (amth.gr).
Take a boat ride
It’s free to board one of the (slightly tacky) galleon-style ships along the promenade. Just pay for your drinks (£4.30 for a beer) on board.
Best views
Take the lift or the stairs up the 76m-tall OTE former radio tower where there are fantastic views of Mount Olympus. It’s free, with a cafe/bar at the top (skyline.bar).
Where to eat
Above is Kapani, one of the city’s main markets, located just south of Dikastirion Square
Street food: Look out for Koulouria (sesame bread rings)
Loupino
On Katouni, a lively cobbled street in Ladadika, Loupino stands out. Order plenty and indulge in superb tzatziki, fava (blended bean) dips, feta cheese with honey, roasted octopus, grilled pork belly in barbecue sauce and delicious grilled chicken. About £25 for a feast.
4 Katouni (loupino.gr).
Nautiliaki
Wonderful seafood beside the Rotunda, a huge redbrick structure built by Roman Emperor Galerius. Tuck into meze of roe fish salad and anchovies
8 Agios Georgios Rotunda (nautiliaki.gr).
The Crossroad of Flavours
This tiny, canteen-style corner cafe is an example of a magirio – a neighbourhood ‘chef’s kitchen’.
Expect beef stew in wine sauce, meatball soup, chicken with peas, and spaghetti with prawns. No more than £6.50 a dish. You eat on a ledge outside.
14 Filippou (tostavrodromitongeuseon.gr).
Kapani and Modiano markets
This pair of markets are just south of Dikastirion Square. Drop by for a coffee (£1.30) at a cafe in one of the little lanes beside the olive and nut stalls.
Try delicious bougatsa filo pastry (£2) that’s served with sweet or savoury fillings – Café Serraikon has the best – and feta served with koulouria (sesame bread).
The promenade is lined with galleon-style ships, like the one pictured here
How to get there
Ryanair flies from Stansted to Thessaloniki from £56 return (ryanair.com). Easyjet flies from Gatwick and Manchester from £58 return (easyjet.com). See: thessalonikitourism.gr, visitgreece.gr.
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