‘It’s all about weight transfer over the front foot’, Mike told me. ‘Lean forward to speed up, ease back to slow down and lean left or right to turn’.
Mike, a surf instructor at Maui Surf Pros, had his work cut out.
He was the dude tasked with finally turning me into a real surfer, or at least someone who could stay on a board for more than a few seconds before getting a saltwater sinus rinse.
I recently turned 50, and I’m fulfilling a lifelong dream – learning to surf in Hawaii.
It had been 36 years since my first surf, and I’d never taken a lesson. Maybe ego. Maybe youth. It’s a man thing: we don’t ask for directions or read instructions.
I first stood on a surfboard in 1989, on a school trip to Jersey. I was 14, instantly hooked, and spent the next three decades ‘surfing’ with the grace of an injured seal.
I spent my early twenties living in Newquay, Cornwall – the UK’s surf mecca. But life, work, kids, and a move away from surf beaches meant surfing happens rarely.
Now, at 50, with my 1969 VW Camper resto almost complete and a surf itch still to scratch, I decided it was finally time to get some pointers. And where better to do that than Hawaii, the birthplace of surfing.
Mark Walker travels to Kihei Beach in Hawaii, where he takes his first ever surf lesson aged 50
With the help of Mike, a surf instructor at Maui Surf Pros, Mark paddles out to the open sea and makes his first-ever turns in no time
Mike turned out to be the kind of surf instructor you’d hope for – easy-going, friendly, patient, and with a knack for making me believe I could do anything.
After a few tips and some practice pop-ups on the beach, I paddled out under an orange sky. Then came the first wave; paddle, pop-up… and suddenly, I was balanced and making my first-ever turn.
Mike whooped from behind me, and for the first time, I wasn’t wobbling around; I was SURFING – it all began to click.
Standing on the soft sands of Kihei Beach, sun setting over the Pacific, it hit me: this was the moment teenage me had dreamed of.
I spent the first few nights at the recently renovated Wailea Beach Resort, a short drive to Kihei beach for surf lessons.
Oceanfront, on the southwest coast of the island, it delivers postcard views, excellent restaurants and Hawaii’s longest water slide (for the big kid in me).
It also boasts the Olakino Wellness Sanctuary Spa. A serene, adults-only space dedicated to health, rejuvenation and – in my case – attempting to soothe my aching ribs.
Yes, I was there to learn to surf, but I also wanted to explore and visit respectfully.
Maui is still rebuilding after the devastating 2023 wildfires. I checked into the charming Royal Lahaina Resort, a hotel that’s played an important role in helping the local community recover.
Mark spent the first few nights of his trip at the recently renovated Wailea Beach Resort, a short drive to Kihei beach for surf lessons
Pictured: Poipu Beach, renowned for its resident sea turtles (pictured) and endangered monk seals
Pictured: Family members of Smiths Wailua Tours gathering to sing ‘Mele Kalikimaka’
Pictured: Sweeping views high above the clouds at Haleakala, dormant shield volcano that makes up over 75 per cent of Maui
While parts of Lahaina are still closed off, you can enjoy nearby Kaanapali Beach and Whalers Village for shopping and dining. Visitors are very welcome and tourism supports local livelihoods.
The Old Lahaina Lu’au is also open and a truly authentic cultural evening – traditionally cooked food, mesmerising hula, and storytelling that traces the islands’ earliest settlers.
Known as ‘The Valley Isle’, I quickly understood why as I took to the skies with Maverick Helicopters for a 75-minute scenic flight along the island’s rugged coast into the Hāna Rainforest.
Landing in a tropical oasis, glass of champagne in hand, I thought: ‘If heaven has a helipad, it looks like this.’
At a detriment to my surfing, I ate some epic meals. My favourite spots were Plate Lunch Marketplace – a row of colourful food trucks serving local favourites – and Kalei’s at Cannery Mall.
Through my lifelong love of classic Volkswagens, I’d connected online with Mitch and Lori, owners of a stunning 1967 VW Bus named Kona they rent out for events and shoots.
They took me for a spin. Cruising with the safari windscreens open and gazing out at the lush scenery was a great way to see more of the island.
I highly recommend visiting Haleakalā National Park. You need to purchase a Park Pass beforehand and pack layers; it gets cold at 10,000 feet when the sun goes down, and the stars come out. It’s an otherworldly experience as you reach the volcanic summit, Mars-like desert and cinder cones rolling out in front of you.
En route, I stopped at the quaint upcountry towns of Paia and Makawao, brimming with boutique stores and local coffee shops.
Pictured: Stunning turquoise waters along Nā Pali Coast State Park
Pictured: Hanapepe Night Market offers plenty of fresh, local treats
Pictured: Fern Grotto, a lava rock grotto located on the south fork of the Wailua River
Flying all that way, I wanted to tick off two Hawaiian islands so I hopped over to Kauai, ‘The Garden Isle’, covered in lush rainforest, waterfalls, hiking trails and home to the Grand Canyon of the Pacific – Waimea Canyon.
I stayed at the Ko‘a Kea Resort on Poipu Beach. It’s an intimate, stylish oceanfront resort where sea turtles laze in the shallows and evenings are best spent watching the sun slip into the Pacific with a Piña Colada. It also has an on-site surf school and rentals.
I joined Smith’s Boat Tours, a family business with deep roots in Kauai, who share songs and stories of ancient Hawai‘i as you journey along the Wailua River to the Fern Grotto.
As we sailed back, the family gathered to sing ‘Mele Kalikimaka’ – it was almost Christmas, after all.
December through March is Humpback Whale season so I also booked a boat trip with Kauai Sea Tours. As the catamaran sailed past the dramatic cliffs of the legendary Napali Coast we spotted whales and spinner dolphins who put on quite the show.
After snorkelling with turtles, I tried traditional Hawaiian SPAM and egg Musubi; sushi with a twist and sipped on mai tais as we cruised back to port.
I also happened upon Hanapepe, Kauai’s ‘biggest little town’ which has great local coffee shops – shout out to Pilinas – boutiques and art galleries. I tucked into great sushi at Japanese Grandma’s, a garden restaurant with live music.
I couldn’t resist one last surf at Poipu Beach. The swell was up, so I hired a board and paddled out – still not quite Kelly Slater, but I’ll definitely be finding more time for surfing now.
TRAVEL FACTS
Mark travelled as a guest of Hawaii Tourism Europe.
Flights to Honolulu with United Airlines start from £1,300. To book: united.com.
Interisland flights with Hawaiian Airlines start from £29. To book: hawaiianairlines.com.
Mark stayed at Royal Lahaina Resort, where Tower Suite rooms start from £270 per night (royallahaina.com), Wailea Beach Resort, where rooms start at £569 per night (marriott.com), and Ko‘a Kea Resort, where rooms start at £462 per night (koakea.com).
Private lessons with Maui Surf Pros start from £110. (mauisurfpros.com).
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