Even if I did speak perfect French, ordering at Bar Gaspard, one of Marseille’s hippest cocktail spots, would have been impossible.
Entering the dimly lit bar on a Friday night, we’re handed what we presume is a menu but is only a blank page. Seeing our confusion, the bartender explains that tailor-made cocktails are prepared based on ‘taste preference, mood and vibe for the night’.
Any remaining doubt we’re in a ‘trendy’ cocktail bar is swiftly put to rest.
He eyes us up and down, listens to our vague ideas and, with a wink, disappears to a corner of the bar, from where the sound of ice juggling in a shaker emanates. Soon we’re sipping dark rum with lime juice, Thai basil and a touch of chilli… it’s delicious.
Marseille has long had a gritty reputation, with regular reports of drug-related violence and organised-crime. But thanks to around half a billion euros spent on sprucing up the famous port, much of it invested in the run-up to and after being named as a European Capital of Culture in 2013, the tide has turned.
Now this Provencal port is home to modern art galleries, cutting-edge museums (including the brilliant Mucem, dedicated to Mediterranean civilisations), foodie-approved restaurants and trendy bars.
There are plenty of great hotels, too, including a branch of stylish chain Mama Shelter, the hip Nhow, as well as the suitably chic InterContinental Marseille, a BA Holidays hotel, which I’ve opted for.
Built into an 18th-century hospital and with a third of rooms overlooking the old port, it’s superbly located – ideal for a long weekend in the city.
The Mail’s Executive Travel Editor, Genie Harrison, visits France’s ‘second city’ Marseille – which has shed its gritty reputation over the past decade
It’s now one of Europe’s most trendy destinations with great food, sea views and markets
There are a number of good hotels in Marseille, but Genie opts for the ‘suitably chic’ InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu, where over a third of rooms offer views over the old port
On a tip off from a local, Genie heads to Poissonnerie Kennedy, a fishmonger/restaurant that’s one of Marseille’s foodie hotspots
And Marseille is wonderful for a short break at this time of year, with average daily highs of around 19C-20C – and the seafood is second to none. On a tip-off from a local, we try out Poissonnerie Kennedy, a fishmonger/restaurant that’s one of the hotspots of Marseille’s foodie scene.
It does not disappoint. We feast on trout ceviche, dollops of cod roe and barbecued sea bass, paired with an oaky sauvignon blanc recommended by our waitress.
Again, no menu is required – we just follow suggestions made by the waitress, which seems to be the done thing here. The following morning we pick up e-bikes from Fada Bike Cafe and go for a ride. We’re heading a few miles down coastal road Corniche Kennedy to the lovely little fishing village of Les Goudes.
It’s only a short departure from the city proper, but there’s a laid-back feel. Nearby, coves are lined with rental beach homes, and boutique hotel and restaurant, the Tuba Club, juts out on to enamel-coloured rocks, overlooking the turquoise sea.
Joggers have made their way from the city centre, as well as fellow cyclists, and many of us sit outside coffee shop Cecile, relaxing in sunshine.
Back in the heart of Marseille, though, there’s plenty of bustle to get stuck in to. Marseille is a cultural melting pot, home to large North African and Arabic communities, which you can feel as you stroll through the streets of the first arrondissement, Noailles – often referred to as the ‘belly’ of the city.
Noailles gives way to Le Cours Julien, a bohemian neighbourhood known for vintage shops and street art. Here, locals and visitors alike trawl through bargain buckets at second-hand shops.
From the city proper, it’s only a short drive or cycle along coastal road Corniche Kennedy to the small fishing village of Les Goudes, where you can spend a lazy morning dipping in and out of coffee shops or enjoying
Home to large North African and Arabic communities, Genie visits the local market in neighbourhood Noailles
We’re fast becoming in-the-know gourmands. On another local tip-off, we head to Livingston, a hip wine bar/restaurant in Le Cours Julien known for tasting menus.
We try the first asparagus of the season – tender and slightly sweet – pink and juicy duck breast and creamy smoked mussels on a fluffy brioche bun, before finishing with a signature French dessert, ile flottante (soft meringue floating on creme anglaise). Again, delicious.
Yes, there is something undeniably cool about Marseille – but there’s a friendliness, too. Look beyond its edgier past and you’ll be rewarded with great food, wine and sea views – as well as a willingness to show you a good time.
TRAVEL FACTS
British Airways Holidays offers two nights at the InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu from £429pp including return Heathrow flights; book by April 30 for stays between October 1 and 31 inclusive (baholidays.com). More information: marseille-tourisme.com.
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